Geology Field Trip

Monday, 31 August 2009

Road Trip Day 12

I got up relatively early this morning, mostly due to getting a tremendously good sleep in my second at Aspen Inn in Ft Klamath. I packed, grabbed a coffee, added an entry to the guest book and bade a fond farewell to my hosts at this lovely motel.

Hard to Leave

I had planned my route to take me through Crater Lake National Park once more for a final look (for this trip anyway) at the "Jewel of the Cascade Mountains" as I have seen it described. This morning the surface was especially smooth as there was not a breath of wind and I'd arrived before the boat cruises had began.

I was moved to tears when I got my first view a couple of days before and I'm not ashamed to say I shed a tear as I left today.

Li'l Critters

I should also give mention to the little squirrels which have punctuated my recent days. These are Golden-mantled ground squirrels and a very energetic and extremely endearing. They also seem to be suicidal flinging themselves at my car as I drive past. Today, at the last overlook by the lake I managed to get real close to this little sweetie. I want one!

Long and Straight

From Crater Lake I headed towards the town of Bend first taking highway 138 East, then Interstate 97 North. Both of these roads have some amazing long straight stretches. For 23 miles I had two turns. One of about 5 degrees and then a 90 turn where 138 meets 97. Though these stretches seemed long, I have a feeling I ain't seen nothing yet. Nebraska may make these distances seem silly... but that is yet to come.

Volcanologist's Dream

My main stops today would all take place in Newberry National Volcanic Monument south of Bend. There are many different volcanic features to see here in the Newberry Caldera so I had to be selective. First I went to the Big Obsidian Flow which is pretty much exactly what it says, a lava flow composed of black obsidian glass mixed with white and grey pumice.

For a former Geology student such as myself, this was another example of seeing a lesson brought to life. Where previously I'd seen a few fragments of obsidian passed around a lecture room, here I was climbing over thousands upon thousands of tons of the remarkable natural black glass. And pumice stone too, from a few lab specimens or a bathroom accessory to a vast outpouring, just 1,300 years old... the blink of an eye in Geological timescales.

Down the Tube

Next on my list, after a cursory glance at pretty Paulina Creek Falls, was the Lava River Cave. I paid my $4 for a gas lantern and headed down into the tunnel which was left behind by a lava flow. The cave is about a mile long and varies in height from what looked like about 30 feet to so low I had to stoop over. As well as very dark, it's also just 42 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Centigrade) so I was glad I'd followed the advice to bring a jacket.

Going with the Flow

Last feature of the day was the Lava Cast Forest which is a lava field that had originally flowed through a forested area some 6,000 years ago. The lava engulfed trees and has left hollows casts around where the trees had temporarily withstood the lava's progress. Again, 6,000 years is nothing in Geological time, and the area has only just started to recover with a few hardy plants and Ponderosa Pine trees moving back into area they had covered before the eruption.

The lava here makes a very distinctive sound when you walk on it and I made a few minor detours off the paved path to hear the definite sound of desolation that the grinding, almost squeaking rock makes as I trod on it.

Bend

Now I'm in Bend, central Oregon and in the hands of the more corporate type of motel. I was late out to dinner so had done no research, but as luck would have it, I chanced upon a very pleasant Chinese Restaurant where I had a delicious "Combo" selection of Pork Fried Rice, Roast Pork, Sweet and Sour Chicken and Golden Fried Shrimp. There was a bowl of Hot 'n' Sour Soup thrown in (no, not literally) and a Diet Pepsi for $12.50 is very good value in my book and made up for the piss-poor Chinese I had in, erm... Ukiah... I think.

Goodnight.

View Larger Map

Stats - Day Thirty-Eight

Distance travelled - 189 Miles - Fort Klamath to Bend via Crater Lake (one last look) and various attractions in Newberry National Volcanic Monument

State count - 17 + DC

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145

Every Conceivable Angle

Sunday, 30 August 2009

Road Trip Day 11

For this, my full day at Crater Lake I took a lie-in... well, as much as a lie in as is possible when your neighbour's room is separated by a thin plasterboard wall and they have a yappy dog with a squeaky chew toy.

Not that I am complaining about this Motel. It is utterly delightful, set on the flat plain below the Cascade Mountain range in which Crater Lake sits. It's run by a lovely couple of ladies who are friendly, welcoming and helpful. It is a wonderfully relaxed and comfortable motel and perfect to return to after a day spent in such beautiful surroundings those in the National Park a few short miles away.

Right Round the Rim

As you might imagine, or know from first hand experience, Crater Lake is pretty much circular and up to 6 miles across at the widest point. A round has been constructed which goes around the entire lake, sometimes very close to the lake, other time veering away depending on the topography of the crater edge. All around are overlooks, each offering slightly different, but always compelling views.

The lake has two notable features within it, those being Wizard Island, a small cinder cone which formed shortly after the mountain collapsed in on itself and the Phantom Ship, a small jagged island which is the remnants of a far older volcano which were exposed after the collapse.

The length of the rim road is 33 miles to which I added the detour to the rather eerie Pinnacles. These are spikes of harder rock which have survived erosion by the river below because they were formed by hot gases escaping and are thus harder and more resistant to water.

Hard to Look Away

Crater Lake does not grow old easily. I never tired of stopping at the lookout points and taking in the vast, still blueness. At one point early in the day I walked the short Sun Notch Trail and it is very hard to imagine a more tranquil spot anywhere. Clear blue sky, tall pine trees, a sloping meadow, sheer cliff behind and the drop down to the crystalline water below. It was the stuff of fairy tales and will stay with me.

Chilling

This evening I had a cheeseburger and an apple and cinnamon muffin from the Organic store at the other motel in Fort Klamath and am now sitting at a picnic table out front of my room writing my blog and listening to some chilled out tunes. The couple with the yappy dog have left, as has the extended family with the three Harley Davidsons so it's a lot quieter here today. I look forward to a spot of Sunday night TV on the one TV channel and an early night.

Peace an' be Wild, y'all.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Thirty-Seven

Distance travelled - 0 Miles - Stayed at Fort Klamath, though I drove at least 33 miles around Crater Lake.

State count - 17 + DC

Burgers eaten - 9... and today's was organic!

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3

Geography and Geology

Saturday, 29 August 2009

Road Trip Day 10

First things first, last night's motel in Medford was lovely. It had old school charm on the outside with clean, comfortable and smart interiors. With the helpful staff too made this one of my favourite stays so far.

Phone Blues

OK, this is my second pass at this paragraph. The first was way too long so here's the short version...

I have a new handset. I have kept the same number. Brenda at Radio Shack and the staff at Mobile Madness of Medford rock and saved my ass and all my saved numbers. Also, the Old Farmhouse Dinner on the corner of Court and Riverside make delicious Potato Cakes, but the service is slow.

Quick Stop

By the time my phone issue was sorted and breakfast eaten it was midday so I put the pedal to the metal and drove towards Crater Lake National Park. I made one quick stop on the way at Rogue River Gorge, an area where the river cuts down through ancient lava flows in a very beautiful, deep little gorge. The water is crystal clear and so cool you can feel the air chill as you get closer.

Straight Out of the Text Book

I didn't have anyone to lead me to the edge blindfolded, so I did my best to barely glimpse at the lake until I was parked. Then I carefully picked my spot, walked to the low wall staring at the ground before looking up to take my first look down at Crater Lake.

Until today Crater Lake was a diagram from my school and college days studying Geography and Geology. It was a cross section of a volcano which a solidified plug and a blue hashed area indicating water in the resulting bowl shaped section.

Today I was confronted with the reality and it is very, very different. For a start it's not a cross section. The lake itself is the most extraordinary shade of blue and it's just so huge, being 6 miles wide at the widest point. The rim stands high above the lake with lookouts all around. I was left breathless and just a bit teary.

This first view was brief though as I had enquired about hikes and drives and the ever-helpful information desk attendant had let me know there was a Ranger lead hike to a viewpoint for sunset. I left the park and drove down to my motel at tiny Fort Klamath.

Off the Grid

Fort Klamath is the first settlement south of the park and consists of half a dozen houses, a general store and two motels. I'm at the Aspen Motel and it's very pretty indeed and very remote from everything. There's no phone signal, no WiFi and only 1 channel on the TV. In a way, it'll be nice to be off the grid for a couple of days, especially in these stunning surroundings.

Sunset

I drove back into the park in good time for the start of the walk. There was a group of about 20 and our cordial Ranger arrived to lead the way and regale us with Native American stories of the origins of the lake and the surrounding mountain ranges. She was very sweet and a great story teller, though I confess I became mildly distracted when I realised that the person she reminded me strongly of was Michael J. Fox... but in the good way.

The sunset was beautiful with pretty cloud formations for the light to bounce off. I'll add this memory to those of sunsets in Monument Valley, Grand Canyon and the South Downs.

On the way back down from our vantage point high up on the rim I got chatting with one of the group. We exchanged stories of sights seen and of travelling solo. Thanks Remy, (apologies if spelt wrong) it was a pleasure to meet you.

Now, after a dinner which is best forgotten it's time for me to turn the one TV channel off and hit the hay.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 10 in a larger map

Stats - Day Thirty-Six

Distance travelled - 105 Miles - Medford to Fort Klamath via Rogue River Gorge and Crater Lake.

State count - 17 + DC

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3

Welcome to Oregon, You Guys!

Friday, 28 August 2009

Road Trip Day 9

Well, it was a fond goodbye to the beautiful Redwoods today. I started with a hopeful trip out to a lookout point above Crescent Beach and got a very atmospheric view of the Ocean and shoreline. This was my last look at the Northern California coastline. I never did see it bathed in sunshine.

It was now time to strike inland for my upcoming visit to Crater Lake. Happily this coincided very nicely with one last scenic drive and loop trail amongst the Redwoods. I drove along Howland Hill Road heading out of Crescent City and stopped at Stout Memorial Grove for one last stroll (and a hug).

Domestic Matters

I took the fastest and, coincidentally, most attractive route towards my next hotel in Medford as I had domestic matters on my mind. It was high time I did a load of laundry so needed to arrive in good time to find a laundrette. I did make a couple of stops though.

First was a quick one at the California-Oregon border where I stopped for a shot of the "Welcome to Oregon" sign. We stopped for several of these on the Trek and I wanted to carry on the tradition. I also made sure to yell the familiar "Welcome to [insert state here], you guys!" which Kate would heartily wake us with when we entered each new state. The announcement would be followed by a list of fascinating facts (or factoids) so I sent a request by text and Kate replied with some corkers.

Oregon is the US's largest producer of Hazelnuts and Christmas Trees. Also, the state motto is "She flies with her own wings." Thanks Katelin!

The Oregon Vortex and House of Mystery

When I was casting around to my gaming buddies for ideas on what to see, one that came up was the Oregon Vortex. It was right on my route (though I almost missed it) and was an absolute delight. Americana at it's very best. The Vortex is an area discovered in the 1930's to have mysterious gravitational effects and to cause amazing phenomena. Most striking is the way people appear to shrink and enlarge as they move south to north and back again.

This comparison clearly (sort of) shows how simple by reordering ourselves along the north to south line we go from roughly the same heights to much taller at one end and shorter at the other. If you can't see it, squint...

I know what you're thinking, that's all optical illusions but it's really cool and if you take the time to suspend disbelief it's a real treat. Our guide for the day was great; really enthusiastic and did her best to whip up the rather reticent group I happened to join.

Also, on the same site, but not necessarily related is the House of Mystery. It's an old shack that slipped in a landslide and now shows some amazing properties which really mess with your head.

I had a great time there and recommend it to anyone passing through the area.

However, my dirty clothes wouldn't wash themselves so I pressed on to Medford. Tonight motel is so much better than last night's and when I asked at reception for a laundry close by she said there were machines available to guests on site I could use and even gave me some detergent. For a little over 3 bucks I have done a huge wash and dry and have a case full of clean clothes once more.

Fly in the Ointment

One minor issue has developed this evening. It appears my blasted mobile phone is on the blink. It worked fine when I made a call and sent texts today but when I got back from the restaurant tonight the screen was blank and has stayed that way. It can receive calls, I can hear the buttons working but not a sign of life from the screen. Annoyingly that means my first stop tomorrow will be to a phone shop for repair or replacement. I could do without that to be honest. Still, nevermind eh? Stuff happens.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 9 in a larger map

Stats - Day Thirty-Five

Distance travelled - 112 Miles - Crescent City, CA to Medford, OR via Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and The Oregon Vortex and House of Mystery.

States entered - Oregon

State count - 17 + DC

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118

Bear and Lion Country

Thursday, 27 August 2009

Road Trip Day 8

Memories of cold / hot camping mornings came flooding back as I ate my bowl of Cheerios and drank a cup of juice, followed by an English Muffin... which is appropriate, seeing as how I am one!

I left foggy Eureka behind and drove straight to the southern-most entrance to Redwood National Park. My previous experience at other national parks showed that the visitors centres are excellent and the Park Rangers are an invaluable source of advice and information. I explained how long I'd be at the park and how much I could walk with my sore hip and the ranger gave me some ideal suggestions.

Best Advice, Ever

First on my agenda was Lady Bird Johnson Grove, a circular walk around the area where the National Park was dedicated in 1968. It's a beautiful area, high on a mountain ridge, but level and with a well written set of self-guide directions.

At the start of the trail is an information board which featured what is probably the best piece of advice I have ever received.

If it's too small to read above, this links to a larger version.

So, remember, if you are attacked by a Bear or a Mountain Lion, don't just lie there, fight back aggressively.

Also, point 3 at the bottom, remember to pick up small children. Why? Because you'll need them at point 4 "...throw objects".

Happily, my walk was incident free and the most ferocious things I encountered were a small lizard and a German couple and their two kids. I chucked a few pine cones at them just to be on the safe side.

Fern Canyon

My next destination involved a drive on several miles of unpaved road which was fun, but The Beast is pretty dirty now. I am considering not having her washed for the entire journey. Given the hassle I had with the rental I'd quite enjoy returning the car covered in 6,000 miles worth of dirt.

8 miles of gravel and two streams later I parked up and took a walk along Fern Canyon, a deep cut in the coast with ferns growing deep on both sheer sides and a stream gently running through it. A lovely cool, humid loop walk for an hour.

Back at the car park I tucked into the remains of yesterday night's pizza.

Big Tree

Heading further north I reached the scenic Newton B. Drury Scenic Highway which, like yesterday's scenic drive, is a section of the old 101 Highway running through an area of Redwood forest. There were several turn offs and I took one marked "Big Tree", at which I saw an especially large specimen which had apparently been saved from an enterprising man who wanted to chop it down and turn the stump into a dance-floor.

In this more enlightened, ecological age it's hard to imagine people wanting to fell these magnificent organisms. You can really feel their presence as you walk amongst them and I've hugged a few now.

Another Motel

Tonight's hotel is another example of the classic two storey, park in front, roadside type though this one is showing more signs of age than most I've stayed in. It's fine though and absolutely adequate, except for the WiFi which is pretty poor. I'm writing this in draft form in my room, but will have to go out onto the walkway outside my upstairs room to get connection. Still, the TV works fine so I watched the Little League Baseball World Series (which does feature teams from all over the world, so there!) and the sports news on ESPN before heading out for food.

Clam Chowder

The minimal research I did for dinner lead me to The Beachcomber Restaurant just south of me here in Crescent City. Their dinner menu included a starter of Clam Chowder which I've seen on several menus already but have never tried until tonight. My verdict? Delicious! I'm hoping to have a few more bowls before I leave the North-west. My entrée was a huge Sirloin, cooked to absolute perfection followed by a small piece of bread pudding for dessert. Both meal and service were faultless and I was sure to tip accordingly. Thanks Josh.

Moonlight

I was feeling very happy as I left the restaurant, but the visual treats for today were not over as I took in the view of the hazy half moon reflected in the Ocean and the Battery Point Lighthouse blinking away. A perfect end to a wonderful day in beautiful Northern California.

A Word About California

By the end of tomorrow I'll have crossed into Oregon so it seems like a good time to talk about California.

Not for a moment did I feel anything but welcomed by the people and places in Southern California, but I would say that as I've travelled north the landscape has become progressively more naturally beautiful and the folks have seemed more laid-back and warm. Maybe I didn't see enough of LA, but I did feel very comfortable in San Francisco and, on reflection, should have spent another day there.

I'm glad I've slowed my progress down a little over the last few days as I'd have hated not to have seen all I have seen of Redwood. I was sure I'd enjoy the forests here but was unprepared for how majestic they really are.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 8 in a larger map

Stats - Day Thirty-Four

Distance travelled - 117 miles - Eureka to Crescent City via Redwood National Park.

State count - 16 + DC

Pizza Count - 5... I started it last night and finished it today so it only counts as one pizza, even though it was two meals.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246

Meep-Meep!

Wednesday, 26 August 2009

Road Trip Day 7

After a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs, hash browns, sausage (link) and white toast at the on-site dinner at my hotel in Ukiah, I set off to the Montgomery Woods State Nature Reserve. I'd read on the web that this was the home of the World's Tallest Tree, however when I rang the Reserve this morning to enquire about access they explained that a taller one has since been found.

Undeterred I set off for the reserve and started back over the same ranges I crossed yesterday, by a different road. Early in my journey I had to slow for a bird in the road. I didn't give it much thought except to think it looked a bit like a pheasant. A couple of turns later there were three more brids running along the road in front of me. That's when it dawned on me. Birds... running... on the road... Roadrunners! These were actual, real Roadrunners. I laughed my ass off.

During the TrekAmerica we camped at Fort Stockton which is home to the second largest Roadrunner statue in America. They looked just like the statue.

A parked up at the reserve and took the trail into the depths of the woods. There was barely a breath of wind in the woods and I was enveloped in silence. It was a deeply tranquil experience strolling amongst the huge Redwoods with only the sound of my own footsteps.

I love trees at the best of times but there was something especially lovely about the ancient giants.

Back to the PCH... Again

I have an extreme aversion to going back on myself so when the Sat Nav suggested I take the same road back to Ukiah to continue my journey I ignored it and carried on over the mountains. 20 odd miles of twists and turns later I arrived at the coast back on California Highway 1.

The scenery I have described already continued on this stretch, but there was even less traffic and fewer towns. I emerged near the picture postcard town of Mendocino and stopped a while to look in the windows of the art galleries, fancy boutiques and restaurants.

"...and then I drove into a tree"

Thanks go to my gaming Bro Mike for my next adventure. He'd texted me to make sure to find this classic example of Americana. I drove to Leggett to find the Drive Thru Tree. Here's the video...

[I'm having problems embedding the video, so if it's not showing for you, here's a link direct to YouTube]

Avenue of the Giants

By now it was getting late and I needed to get to this evening's hotel so I took Interstate 101 North towards Eureka. I'd not been going long before I saw seduced into turning off by signs to the "Avenue of the Giants" which is a section of the old 101 going through a section of Redwood forest featuring some more huge specimens... and, I noticed, another Tree you can drive through! I'm glad I took the detour and it only added a few minutes to my journey.

View Road Trip Day 7 in a larger map

I arrived in Eureka around 6:00pm, rested awhile, went to get a take-out Pizza, watched "Baseball Tonight on ESPN" and now I'm going to bed.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Thirty-Three

Distance travelled - 198 miles - Ukiah to Eureka via Montgomery Woods State Nature Reserve, Mendocino, The Drive Thru Tree in Leggett and Avenue of the Giants.

State count - 16 + DC

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210

Back on the Winding Road

Tuesday, 25 August 2009

Road Trip Day 6

After another so-called "complimentary breakfast" of a cup of juice from a machine and a small bran muffin (I took a chocolate one away for later) I climbed in The Beast and headed out of San Francisco over the Golden Gate Bridge.

I had one of those "Oh my goodness, I am in America" moments as I drove over such an iconic, internationally known landmark. It's a big, elegant suspension bridge and I couldn't stop myself grinning like a mad thing as I drove over towards Sausalito.

Bay Model

Late last night I was having one final flick through my USA guidebook and happened across a reference to the Bay Model in Sausalito. I'd already planned to go there as so many people had mentioned what a pretty little harbour town it is with views back to San Francisco.

The Bay Model it turns out is a 1,000th scale model of the Bay Area and was used from the 1950's to 2000 to study things like changes to dredging channels, proposed dam construction and other construction. It's the size of two football fields and has been opened to the public as a working exhibit since computer modelling supplanted the need for a physical model. It's pretty cool and an interesting find for my trip.

San Francisco Skyline

After visiting the model I stopped at a diner for breakfast and then drove on down the harbour front where the best view of San Francisco is. My photo doesn't really do it justice especially as it was, inevitably, misty.

Cold Feet

I resumed my journey by crossing back over the interstate highway and going back to the coast and California Highway 1, the Pacific Coast Highway. This is evidently the less well travelled part of the PCH but not because it is any less beautiful or challenging. The road is, in many places as dramatically twisting as the part I drove a few days ago and sweeps along the coast as well as taking some small detours inland through some quaint, untouched townships. Tomales was particularly stunning with beautiful Mom and Pop stores and the most darling old-time hardware store.

I made a long stop at Stinson Beach where I made sure to go down to the Ocean and get my feet wet. I'm glad to know that I have now paddled in the Northern Pacific Ocean as well as both the North and South Atlantic. [Note to self: plan trip to South Pacific]

So, today I learned that the Pacific is both wet and cold.

Over the Mountains

To get to my hotel for this evening in Ukian, I had to head inland by around 30 miles. On the map and Sat Nav the road inland looks like a relatively straight line. Wrong.

In reality the road climbs over two mountain ranges, Cold Spring Mountain (2,674 feet, 815m) and Casabonne Peak (3,051 feet, 929m). These two climbs up and over the ranges were categorically, definitely the most amazing and thrilling roads I have ever driven. By the time I'd got over the first range I had to stop and get out shake the adrenaline off. It was so much fun, requiring so much concentration and all with such awesome views.

I want to be a Rally Driver when I grow up!

The map below shows my route today in "Terrain" mode. If you move towards the top and zoom in you'll see the ranges I crossed. Did I mention they were "awesome"?

View Road Trip Day 6 in a larger map

Down To Earth

Now I am back down to earth after a slightly disappointing Chinese meal in Ukiah, though the room here is very nicely presented and the king size bed behind me looks very inviting. I think I should go test it out.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Thirty-Two

Distance travelled - 166 miles - San Francisco to Ukiah via Sausalito, Stinson Beach, California Hwy 1 and two insane mountain passes.

State count - 16 + DC

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205

On The Buses

Monday, 24 August 2009

Road Trip Day 5

I allowed myself the luxury of not setting an alarm today and woke up naturally feeling refreshed and ready for my day sightseeing in San Francisco. My hip felt pretty good today too which was a huge relief. It's still troubling me, but each day feels a bit better.

The "Complimentary Breakfast" here at America's Best Value Inn, Golden Gate is pretty funny. It consists of the coffee and juice machines in reception with a tray of muffins. I had horrible coffee, adequate juice and a passable chocolate muffin then started my day with a bus ride into the centre of the city to go buy my Muni Passport, a single pass to let me use the city bus system including the famous cable cars.

The Streets of San Francisco

The Cable Cars are, as the guidebook says, pure tourism as they are slow and outdated, but they are part of the City's appeal and I'm not afraid to join the tourist herd when needs be. The wait lasted about 45 minutes, but as I queued I got a call from Kate from TrekAmerica and we had a good natter about our respective plans. It was so good to hear from her.

Once on the Cable Car, it clanked its way a lot further than I had thought. I'd imagined a five minute ride, but it probably lasted 20 minutes or more and over a long distance. It also stops at the top of the famous section of Lombard Street which doubles back and forth 7 times and is marked on the map as the "Crookedest Road".

Fisherman's Wharf

The cable car ended its journey at Fisherman's Wharf which is a mix of culture, restaurants and tacky souvenir shops. I took a walk around the ships on display at the Maritime Museum, then up to picturesque (and chocolate themed) Ghiardelli Square. I had lunch at Lori's Diner, as recommended by Danny, and enjoyed my Popcorn Shrimp with fries and an Oreo Cookie Milkshake. Yummy!

From Fisherman's Wharf, I started taking the buses and made my next stop at Coit Tower. There's a short $5 elevator ride to the top which is well worth it for the views across the city. You really get to see the hills and variations in steepness of the roads. It's a beautifully quirky city and this is the place to take it in.

Golden Gate Park

I took a bus back into the centre of the city, then another out to the huge Golden Gate Park (which is nowhere near the bridge by the way). I'd received recommendations to go to the Japanese Tea Gardens so I made sure to stop there, once I found it... bad map, bad! It's very tranquil, even with people milling around and I even took a few moments of contemplation at a Zen garden. I also met a very pretty little bird who was kind enough to let me take a photo. I haven't got a North American bird book yet (will add to shopping list) so maybe someone else can identify it for me?

Properly Cold

By now, the low cloud was back overhead, cutting out the sun and making it feel properly cold. I actually quite liked the feeling and it made a change from four weeks of hot and/or humid weather.

I walked through the park some more before completely failing to find my next bus home... did I mention the bad map? So, after a longer walk than I really wanted, I took two more buses back to my hotel.

Punt

I said I'd try to be a bit more adventurous for dinner tonight, so walked along the street from my hotel and looked for something that isn't part of a chain. I stumbled upon a Thai restaurant that looked very nice and had a great, cheap menu.

I'm so happy that I did as my charbroiled chicken in pineapple sauce with sticky rice was delicious and great value too. I must seek more random eateries out on my trip.

Now, back at the hotel, I need to turn in as I'm back behind the wheel tomorrow on my way to Ukiah.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Thirty-One

Distance travelled - 0 - Stayed in San Francisco (though I covered a good few miles by cable car, bus and on foot too!)

State count - 16 + DC

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212

Don't Call it "Frisco"

Sunday, 23 August 2009

Road Trip Day 4

I skipped out of Salinas quite early today after a complimentary continental breakfast. I woke too early to be hanging around waiting for the mall to open, so I hit the road and chose a random destination from my road atlas. I chose "Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk".

This "pin in the map" attraction turned out to be the most deliciously cheesy beach-front amusement park with an old-school wooden roller-coaster, log flume and merry-go-round plus all the accompanying candy floss, hot dogs, ice cream and fairground stalls.

I took a look around, ate some pop corn then resumed my journey, heading for a different mall on route to San Francisco.

More Mist

With the invaluable assistance of my Sat Nav I arrived at my San Francisco hotel in the sun shine. I checked in, parked The Beast is the tiny parking space she'll be staying in for the next couple of days and brought my bags upstairs.

By the time I'd done all that, settled in and checked the internet connection I left the hotel to find that the notorious San Francisco mist had rolled in.

I was strolling down Lombard Street where my hotel is and going towards the Presidio, an area of parkland, but formerly a military installation when I glanced down a side street and saw a yacht. That drew me down Broderick Ave towards the Marina District, an area of huge, beautiful houses on immaculate, tree-lined streets.

I reached the Marina then turned towards the mouth of the bay for my first view of the Golden Gate Bridge. I didn't get the best view possible... as you can see for yourself.

IHOP

I was feeling pretty tired by now so took the easy option for dinner and ate at the International House of Pancakes, usually abbreviated to IHOP but wasn't really impressed. Never mind, I'll make sure to find somewhere more adventurous tomorrow.

Now it is bedtime and I'm hoping the traffic noise echoing around the courtyard of the hotel subsides overnight.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Thirty

Distance travelled - 143 - Salinas to San Francisco via Santa Cruz

State count - 16 + DC

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212

Misty's Misty Adventure

Saturday, 22 August 2009

Road Trip Day 3

Since the TrekAmerica part of my journey ended I've been all over the place with my eating habits. When on your own, it's easy to find yourself missing meals because there's no-one else to say "I'm hungry" or "Where shall we stop for lunch?" Also, neither of the motels I have stayed at so far offered breakfast.

So, took steps last night to make sure I had a good start to the day by finding a restaurant for breakfast this morning. I found a place which had received glowing reviews on the TripAdvisor site and enjoyed good coffee, two eggs (over easy), potatoes, white toast and sausage. Very nice it was too and a habit I need to continue as I'd never usually skip breakfast so why start now?

The PCH

So, today was the day I drove the Pacific Coast Highway, or PCH. Since I was first alerted to its existence by Danny at work, I've wanted to drive it. I have been on the PCH for the last couple of days, but the section I drove today from Morro Bay to Monterrey is the most impressive. The road is cut into cliffs, sometimes several hundred feet up with sheer drops on the seaward side and cliffs threatening to drop rocks from the landward. I drove over several recent small rock falls and over even more sections of recently repaired road.

The only fly in the ointment was that the low mist I mentioned enveloping Morro Bay last night had not lifted and extended almost the entire length of this most dramatic section of the PCH.

I'm not sure how much I missed though as the road requires your 100% attention. I managed a few glances left and right on the occasional straight section, but these rarely lasted more than a couple of hundred yards. I did make sure to stop a few times and take a break and look around. My fellow road users were in no hurry either, which is commendable, but if I could have a dream come true it would be to drive the same route again, but with no one else on the road and in a car better suited to the twists, turns and inclines... something like a 1.9 litre diesel Renault Megane Convertible perhaps?

Still, mustn't grumble. The Beast did just fine and I dare say in a car with manual transmission I'd have ruined my leg making all those gear shifts.

Back to Nature

After the morning and early afternoon of driving surrounded by Harley's, camper vans and Mustang Convertibles (Grrr...) I took a break back to nature in the afternoon at Point Lobos State Reserve. It's a lovely spot where some great geology is exposed where land meets sea. There's a mix of soft conglomerate and sandstone alongside solid granite. The result is a series of crinkly bays, beaches and nicks in the coastline.

That's No Log

When I browsed the information leaflet issued at the gate I noticed a bit about Sea Otters and thought, "Yeah Right, I'll never spot one of those..." Well, just shows what I know. I did as they advised and looked for a log sized object with bumps at each end; the head and back flippers of the otter and there it was right in front of me.

Best of all, it was doing that trick of opening shells by bashing them against a stone balanced on its tummy.

I spent a very relaxed couple of hours at Point Lobos and felt refreshed for the rest of my journey.

Salinas

I'm now in my hotel room in the Salinas wrestling with a dodgy internet connection. It's quite a large motel, but very clean and comfortable with a Black Bear Diner on site where I've just demolished ribs and steak with mashed potatoes (I've had it up to here with French Fries) and onion rings.

There's a mall near here but as its Sunday tomorrow it doesn't open till 11:00am so I am going to have a lie-in before heading to the mall for some essential supplies.

After that, I'm off to San Francisco for a couple of days.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty Nine

Distance travelled - 146 miles - Morro Bay to Salinas via the PCH and Point Lobos State Reserve

State count - 16 + DC

New Feature!

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148... I'm trying to devise some kind of "Room Number Bingo" or maybe some way of plotting them on a scatter graph in the hopes they form the pattern of the constellation Pisces. Any suggestions, do let me know.

Santa Barbara to Morro Bay

Friday, 21 August 2009

Road Trip Day 2

I spent some time before I left the Motel Hacienda this morning booking upcoming stays in Salinas and San Francisco. Booking hotels is a tedious process, even when using the TravelAdvisor website as I have been doing. It's a question of balancing price against the reviews of people who've stayed in the hotels. I've learned not to hold too much store in the reviews though. For instance, some of the previous guests at the Motel I stayed in last night gave it terrible reviews, yet I found it to be very pleasant and would be happy to recommend it to others.

Still, frustrating as the process is I am happy to have it out of the way for a couple of days.

Santa Barbara by Daylight

Once I'd got the bookings done I drove into the city, made a quick stop at Borders to by a USA Road Atlas and then parked up by the beach for a walk along Stearns Wharf and the oceanfront. My guidebook informs me that Stearns Wharf is the oldest wooden pier in the state and dates back to 1872. However, the prices of the food, snacks and souvenirs on sale are very much up to date. I declined the offer of an ice cream for over $5 and strolled of the pier and along the beach.

I liked Santa Barbara a lot, and it's setting beneath the California Hills is stunning. It's very "California" in that it's clean, crisp and sculpted to be aesthetically pleasing.

Inland

My destination after Santa Barbara is Morro Bay and I decided to let the Sat-Nav take me a more direct route than the coast road. Route 154 took me over the San Rafael Mountain range where I was treated to great view of the dusty hills scattered with the occasional bright green area of irrigated land and a lake created by a dam project.

My route kept me inland as it skirted around Vandenberg Air Force Base before returning to the coast at Pismo Beach where I stopped by to pad around on the sand again. I must get my feet wet with Pacific water soon.

Sea Mist

I arrived in the fishing port of Morro Bay to find it shrouded in a thick sea mist. This meant that the huge "Morro Rock", a volcanic plug which dominates the bay, was only visible from it's midpoint downwards.

My digs tonight are lovely and exactly the image I have an American Motel. Adjoining chalet style rooms with parking spaces outside each one. In this photo you can just see my room with car sitting outside.

Speaking of which, here's that photo of my ride I promised you yesterday. I'm still mulling over a name for her, but the current front runner is "The Beast". One thing which was resolved today was the colour. I got chatting to an aging hippy at one of the mountain pass viewpoints and he described the colour as "Ticket Red", referring to how much she might stand out to cops. Let's hope he's wrong.

Fish and Chips

I wandered along the dockside this evening to the sound of barking sea-lions and squawking gulls and looked for a reasonably priced dinner. I think I was too cautious though as I had a rather disappointing portion of Fish and Chips... oh, and that's the English meaning of chips, i.e. French fries.

Now it's time for bed and a good rest ahead of tomorrow's drive along the most spectacular part of the Pacific Coast Highway and the Big Sur.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty Eight

Distance travelled - 118 miles - Santa Barbara to Morro Bay, with a small detour to Pismo Beach

State count - 16 + DC

On the Road Again

Thursday, 20 August 2009

Road Trip, Day 1

Today was my first day of my self-driven road trip. I'm in charge from here on. I'm the responsible adult. I'm the designated driver. I'm the tour guide. I'm like, totally stoked!

Rental Car Blues

So, when planning this jaunt, the most complex single part was the Rental Car. No-one rents a car for 63 days and they certainly don't drive it from LA to NYC via a 6,000 mile route taking in 30 states.

That's why I spent so long finding a company, Dollar Rent-a-Car, that could do this for me. They were real helpful and suggested that I book via Virgin Holidays as they give an even better rate than Dollar do direct.

So, when booking with Virgin, I included the flights and hotel in New York and did, indeed, get a good price. However, I got crappy service. They kept contradicting themselves over duration, one-way rental fees and frequency with which I'd have to "check-in" with a Dollar office for them to check the car out.

Anyway, after a tremendous amount of hassle and repeated phone calls on my part and a replacement Rental Car voucher which I had to collect at Heathrow as the first one was wrong I believed it to be all sorted.

So, I arrived at the Dollar office at Los Angeles International Airport today with my voucher proudly in hand. Did the rental go smoothly? Did I pick up a Ford Mustang Convertible in a matter of minutes with minimum fuss? DID I FUNK!!

What a bloody shambles. Apparently my booking was cancelled as a "no show"... probably three weeks ago when I didn't arrive at JFK to rent a car as the first, erroneous voucher stated.

Anyway, some blustering by myself and very sincere apologies from the Dollar staff (who also agree that Virgin Holidays suck!) I wandered out to select my convertible.

No Mustangs

Nope, not one. We don't see many of those I'm afraid explained the garage attendant. Choose from this array of white Chrysler Sebring Convertibles. They were all dinged and scratched, so I reluctantly chose one... with a broken roof. I tried another. The attendant lent a hand and showed how the divider in the boot (trunk) works to keep luggage out of the way of the roof.

With the roof of a Sebring stowed in the boot there is about enough room for a laptop computer and a packet of chewing gum (if you like your gum squished that is).

So, regretfully, I rejected the convertible option and went back to get my Rental agreement changed to a "Full Size". I was kind of pissed (off) at this point because I drive a convertible at home and it has good boot space even with the roof stowed. I was also worried I'd end up with a stoopid mini-van or sedan (saloon).

Fortunately, I finally got a bit of good luck and though all the "Full Size" cars had gone, one arrived from the valet station and was ready to go. So, I was finally smiling as I drove off in my bright red 2009 Dodge Charger. It's a pretty sweet ride, good acceleration (now that I've worked out how to boot the throttle to get a good burst of speed) plus it is comfy, quiet and has a good stereo system... and a big boot too.

I'll take a photo tomorrow and you can see how she looks.

Movie Locations

On my trip, I plan to see a few movie locations. Today I planned my route out of Los Angeles so that I could see my first. I drove past the skyscraper which played the part of "Nakatomi Plaza" in the first Die Hard movie.

My photo isn't very good, though it does recreate officer John McClane's (Bruce Willis) first view of the tower at the start of the film. The area around the tower is quite well-to-do and there's no parking signs all over.

From Avenue of the Stars where Nakatomi Plaza, real name "Fox Plaza", is located I took a left onto Santa Monica Boulevard and drove down to the ocean and the start of the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH).

The PCH

The Pacific Coast Highway has been a "must do" part of my trip from very early on. People rave about it and I see why. The first section from LA to Malibu is all about large bays, golden beaches, rocky outcrops and cool, rolling road. I love it already and I'm not even at the good bit yet!

Santa Barbara

I'm now in my first Road Trip hotel, the Motel Hacienda at the very far end of Santa Barbara's trendy State Street. It's a good room, perfectly fine for my needs which, given how tired I feel, is a bed and a shower.

I checked in, sorted my bags then went into the city for a look around.

I has a minor mis-comprehension of what the concierge meant by the centre of town being "5 minutes away". I started walking along state street but after a few minutes I realised I was miles from town. Of course, this is California. No-one refers to how long it takes to walk anywhere. I turned on my heel, unparked the car and drove into town.

Santa Barbara is clearly well-to-do and it's main drag is lines with Sushi Bars, expensive boutiques, art-house cinemas and galleries. I parked up and bought a cappuccino and a piece of carrot cake which looked much nicer than it tasted and watched the well-heeled walk by as I consulted my guide book.

I'll take a closer look tomorrow, including the wooden pier and ocean-front area.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty-Seven

Distance Travelled by road (no longer "as the crow flies") - 111 miles - Hacienda Hotel, El Segundo, Los Angeles, CA to Motel Hacienda, Santa Barbara, CA

State count - 16 + DC

Recharge

Wednesday, 19 August 2009

Day Off

For the first time in three weeks I can't start my entry by saying which Trek Day number it is. I'm a free agent again and took the opportunity to take a "day off". I don't pick up the hire car until tomorrow so it's a chance to have a good lie-in, confirm a hotel booking up the coast, start on my Google map of the route taken so far and generally sort out some "admin" stuff.

Dispersal

In the evening I met up with Kate and the remainder of our Trek group. Final gossip, jokes and anecdotes were exchanged over Mojitos (Minty rum cocktails) and a diet Coke or three before Jenny and Kelly headed off to their hotel in Santa Monica.

Now I'm on my own... well, except for the girl who is sharing my room tonight who has just finished a different check and flies home tomorrow.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty Six

Distance travelled - 0 - Stayed at The Hacienda Hotel, El Segundo, CA

State count - 16 + DC

Manhattan Island to Manhattan Beach in 21 Days

Tuesday, 18 August 2009

Trek Day 21

After checking out from the Luxor, we gathered beside our trusted van for the last time, loaded our bags into the trailer and climber aboard for the long trip across the Mohave dessert to Los Angeles and the end of our 3 week Trek across America.

The Mohave is mostly pretty desolate and flat, and even the few bright spots couldn't stop most of us from sleeping. Various degrees of hang-over, short night's sleeps and the accumulated effect of 3 weeks on the road meant we were shattered.

In 'n' Out Burger

Lunch was taken at "In 'n' Out Burger" which is famed for their ultra simple menu of Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Double Double and Fries, plus a variety of drinks plus a number of "secret" menu options. You need to be in the know about the secret options which include triple and quadruple burgers and "animal style" which gets you extra sauce and grilled onions and can be had on either a burger or your fries.

I had a standard Double Double without tomato or lettuce and it was delicious. Highly recommended and I'm sure I'll go to one or more of their many locations in California.

Los Angeles in an Afternoon

We ploughed on into Los Angeles' horrible traffic and were dropped off at Grauman's Chinese Theatre on Hollywood Boulevard. We joined the tourists and looked at the stars in the walk of fame where the biggest crowd was around Michael Jackson's and then to the theatre itself to check out the hand and footprints in the concrete outside. I tried a few and am quite pleased to find that I am a reasonable match for Jimmy Stewart's hands and feet.

The second stop was, inevitably, at a point overlooking the Hollywood sign. Photos were snapped through the smog with varying degrees of success plus an impromptu group shot which has turned out to be the best of the whole trip.

Last Stop, Manhattan

After what seemed like an interminably long drive through the LA sprawl, we arrived at our last scheduled stop of the Trek. We went down to the Manhattan Beach and ate Pizza. It was my first view of the Pacific Ocean, though it was pretty cold and getting dark so I will save my first paddle for a warmer day.

So, I started in Manhattan and this phase of my adventure ended in Manhattan. It seems very fitting and stuffing my face with pizza surrounded by grumpy looking seagulls was a lovely way to mark our final stop.

Hugs and Goodbyes

We unloaded the van at the destination hotel here in the suburb of El Segundo, not far from Los Angeles International Airport. Most of us were staying here for at least one night, though Uli had opted for a hostel in Hollywood and Zoey and Jayde are a short way off in Inglewood. Hugs were exchanged, tears fell and vows made to remain "Facebook Friends".

I went to my room, introduced myself to my rather surprised room-mate (the rooms are cheap as we double-up with other TrekAmerica passengers) then joined the remained of our group for a drink in the hotel bar.

A Word About The Group Dynamic

During the trip, the thing I have found hardest is adapting to a "group dynamic". I am very much used to being on my own and being free to do what I like, when I like. Living with 11 other people under sometimes stressful conditions was a challenge that I met pretty badly. The difference in age didn't help, nor did the fact that I don't drink. This, combined with my need to have my own space when possible created a distance between myself and the rest of the group which was hard to bridge. We started well, but once the rains started falling and camping made living conditions someway short of ideal, I began to feel a barrier build between us.

The distance came and went, and by the time we reached Vegas and I let myself go a bit, things began to heal. It's a shame that happened so late in the trip and I regret not being fully included in the close knit friendships which have grown on the trip.

Still, it was a learning experience and any coldness in relations never really detracted from the places we visited. Our Trek leader, Kate did a lot to help and was a source of solace on several occasions. Many of the group reached out too and I am very grateful to those who helped keep me from feeling completely outcast.

Next Chapter

So the next chapter of my adventure starts soon. I have a day kicking around El Segundo as I don't fancy going into LA itself during my brief stay here, then I collect the car from the airport and I'm off on the grand drive.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty Five

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 236 - The Luxor Hotel and Casino, NV. To The Hacienda Hotel, El Segundo, CA

States entered - California

State count - 16 + DC

Burgers eaten - 8

Pizza count - 4... not a very healthy eating day

And So, The End Is Near

Monday, 17 August 2009

Trek Day 20

First things first... Following up from yesterday, the Passport was found and handed in at the bar. Drama over. Everyone can travel home with full documentation.

Well, today, my last full day of the tour started late. After a late night last night I took a lie and enjoyed my queen-size bed.

With Internet at $14.99 per day, I'd not taken it up yesterday but activated it this morning instead. With two blog entries uploaded and emails checked, I called home to catch up on news before getting ready for a stroll along The Strip.

Las Vegas is calmer by day, and I was surprised at how peaceful it was as I left my hotel. The crowds gradually appeared as the day went on and as I reached the middle of the strip, but it was nothing compared to the night-life.

I spent the day snapping photos and wandering aimlessly through high-end shopping malls at several of the casinos. I walked as far as the Wynn Encore about 2 miles from the Luxor before turning around and heading back. It was a great way to spend a few hours though it did mean I had a scant 20 minutes to get ready for dinner and an evening out.

Best Leader, Ever

We had Chinese for dinner and the restaurant kindly set us up with a private dining room which was a nice way to have our last dinner together. We also filled in our feedback forms for Kate.

I gave Kate heartfelt "Excellent" scores across the board. I think she has been wonderful from beginning to end and am sincerely impressed with her knowledge, preparation, thoughtfulness, tolerant, fun, unshakable attitude through 3 weeks of sometimes challenging conditions. She's a lovely person and with a less professional and kind leader, I may not have completed the Trek. I certainly wouldn't have enjoyed it as much as I have.

Free Shows

My first stop after dinner was Hooters hotel and casino. Frankly I wasn't impressed with either the venue or the staff. All in all, it was pretty flat... if you catch my drift.

I bailed after one diet coke and took a taxi to the other end of the strip to take in a couple of free shows. First was the Volcano in front of the Mirage. I didn't get a very good spot, but the eruption looked pretty cool.

Next was Sirens Cove at Treasure Island. This was more spectacular, with moving, and sinking ships, fireworks, fireballs and scantily clad dancing girls. It was pretty cheesy, but typically Vegas, so I'm glad I grabbed a good viewpoint and stayed for the show.

I'd met up with some of the group now and we took a cab back to the bar where we went last night. As few drinks then I headed back to the hotel to pack.

Last day in the van tomorrow takes us across the dessert to La La Land.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty Four

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 0 - stayed at The Luxor Hotel and Casino, NV.

State count - 15 + DC