The Revolution

Tuesday, 20 October 2009

Road Trip Day 62

HBO made an award winning series "John Adams" giving an account of the events before and after the American revolution, focusing on the man who would be the second president of the fledgling country. I'm not much of a history buff, but I found the series fascinating both because it was so well done and because the events themselves are so compelling.

The knowledge and interest that series gave me made my trip today through Boston's history wonderful.

Gather Ye for the 11:30 Tour

Actually, the guide for the tour I went on wasn't too over the top with the whole "period" thing but did have the frock coat, breeches and tricorner hat. He was also an excellent raconteur with a strong knowledge and clear interest in his topic. He also didn't overly glamorise the principal players but equally didn't make the stories seem dry or plodding.

The tour he lead us on was an approximation of Boston's "Freedom Trail", a red line painted or lain in bricks across the city. It was an approximation as the first thing he announced was that the line is "for the tourists".

Yet Another Capitol

Boo-yah, I got me another Capitol Building and, inevitably, another dome. Here though, it's not just a gold statue on top, the entire dome is gold. Last time it was refurbished they used 12 pounds of gold leaf. See, I bet you didn't know that before did you?

Churches and Graveyards

Next to Boston Common, the oldest public park in America, is a typically attractive church in the style I have grown accustomed to seeing in New England.

In the graveyard of this central church are buried several of the key personnel involved in the events around the Revolution. John Hancock, of big signature fame, Paul Revere, daredevil horseback messenger and Samuel Adams, spin-doctor and galvaniser of men are all buried here.

Here's Paul Revere's grave with Steve, our guide, behind.

The Boston Massacre

Below is the Old State House, the penultimate stop on the walking tour and right next to the scene of the Boston Massacre, a tipping point in the Revolution where just five people died, but under provocative circumstances.

I returned later for a quick look around the little museum inside the Old State House.

Clam Chowdah

I couldn't come to Boston and not have Clam Chowder, so I did it in style by having a Chowder Bread Bowl at one of the stalls in Faneuil Hall Food Court. In case you have not encountered it, soup in a bread bowl is exactly that, a big chunky bread roll, hollowed out and filled with soup. You eat the soup with a spoon as usual then eat the bread bowl.

It was bloody delicious and I am happy with my choice from the bewildering array in the largest and most diverse food court I've ever seen. I am also happy with the Reeses Peanut Butter Brownie I bought and have just scoffed this evening.

The Walk

I wanted to go see the Mother Church of the Christian Science movement in the Back Bay area of Boston, about a mile or so from Boston Common where I had returned after lunch. The guy at the counter suggested the subway, but I do love to walk a city so strode off with map in hand.

As always, this is by far my preferred method of seeing a city as you get a feel for the folks, the sounds, the smells and the "vibe".

I enjoyed Boston's vibe, something which was probably enhanced by the unexpectedly good weather. The city has plenty of history, mixed with a few striking towers, most pleasing of which is the John Hancock Tower which stands like a shard of glass between the historic heart and the newer Back Bay area.

Have Faith

It was quite a long walk to the Christian Science Centre and by the time I arrived I was getting tired so I declined the opportunity to pay for entry to the neighbouring library and Mapparium. I'll go in next time

I did take a moment to look at the reflecting pool and rather like this photo I took there.

Packing

This evening I not done much except chill out and continue the tedious process of consolidating my baggage down to one newly purchased case and my big, battered holdall.

Tomorrow, I drive to Connecticut.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Eighty-Eight

Distance travelled - 0 miles - Stayed in Boston

State entered - Massachusetts

State count - 38 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229, 115, 108, 106

*room switch