The Revolution

Tuesday, 20 October 2009

Road Trip Day 62

HBO made an award winning series "John Adams" giving an account of the events before and after the American revolution, focusing on the man who would be the second president of the fledgling country. I'm not much of a history buff, but I found the series fascinating both because it was so well done and because the events themselves are so compelling.

The knowledge and interest that series gave me made my trip today through Boston's history wonderful.

Gather Ye for the 11:30 Tour

Actually, the guide for the tour I went on wasn't too over the top with the whole "period" thing but did have the frock coat, breeches and tricorner hat. He was also an excellent raconteur with a strong knowledge and clear interest in his topic. He also didn't overly glamorise the principal players but equally didn't make the stories seem dry or plodding.

The tour he lead us on was an approximation of Boston's "Freedom Trail", a red line painted or lain in bricks across the city. It was an approximation as the first thing he announced was that the line is "for the tourists".

Yet Another Capitol

Boo-yah, I got me another Capitol Building and, inevitably, another dome. Here though, it's not just a gold statue on top, the entire dome is gold. Last time it was refurbished they used 12 pounds of gold leaf. See, I bet you didn't know that before did you?

Churches and Graveyards

Next to Boston Common, the oldest public park in America, is a typically attractive church in the style I have grown accustomed to seeing in New England.

In the graveyard of this central church are buried several of the key personnel involved in the events around the Revolution. John Hancock, of big signature fame, Paul Revere, daredevil horseback messenger and Samuel Adams, spin-doctor and galvaniser of men are all buried here.

Here's Paul Revere's grave with Steve, our guide, behind.

The Boston Massacre

Below is the Old State House, the penultimate stop on the walking tour and right next to the scene of the Boston Massacre, a tipping point in the Revolution where just five people died, but under provocative circumstances.

I returned later for a quick look around the little museum inside the Old State House.

Clam Chowdah

I couldn't come to Boston and not have Clam Chowder, so I did it in style by having a Chowder Bread Bowl at one of the stalls in Faneuil Hall Food Court. In case you have not encountered it, soup in a bread bowl is exactly that, a big chunky bread roll, hollowed out and filled with soup. You eat the soup with a spoon as usual then eat the bread bowl.

It was bloody delicious and I am happy with my choice from the bewildering array in the largest and most diverse food court I've ever seen. I am also happy with the Reeses Peanut Butter Brownie I bought and have just scoffed this evening.

The Walk

I wanted to go see the Mother Church of the Christian Science movement in the Back Bay area of Boston, about a mile or so from Boston Common where I had returned after lunch. The guy at the counter suggested the subway, but I do love to walk a city so strode off with map in hand.

As always, this is by far my preferred method of seeing a city as you get a feel for the folks, the sounds, the smells and the "vibe".

I enjoyed Boston's vibe, something which was probably enhanced by the unexpectedly good weather. The city has plenty of history, mixed with a few striking towers, most pleasing of which is the John Hancock Tower which stands like a shard of glass between the historic heart and the newer Back Bay area.

Have Faith

It was quite a long walk to the Christian Science Centre and by the time I arrived I was getting tired so I declined the opportunity to pay for entry to the neighbouring library and Mapparium. I'll go in next time

I did take a moment to look at the reflecting pool and rather like this photo I took there.

Packing

This evening I not done much except chill out and continue the tedious process of consolidating my baggage down to one newly purchased case and my big, battered holdall.

Tomorrow, I drive to Connecticut.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Eighty-Eight

Distance travelled - 0 miles - Stayed in Boston

State entered - Massachusetts

State count - 38 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229, 115, 108, 106

*room switch

Where Everybody Knows Your Name

Monday, 19 October 2009

Road Trip Day 61

Well, I opened the blinds of my "villa" in Kittery this morning with a little trepidation, but was greeted by a blue sky, snow free ground and chilly, clean breeze. Here's a picture of my "villa" which was warm, cozy, had perfect WiFi signal and good TV reception. No complaints from me.

Incidentally, isn't Kittery a place where you take your young cat to stay when you go on holiday?

Outdoor Museum

Yesterday the weather cut short my journey before I reached my chosen entertainment at Strawbery Banke Museum (no, these are not typos, it's the Olde English original name for the settlement now know as Portsmouth). Even if I had got there I wouldn't have enjoyed myself as it is an outdoor, living museum.

Essentially, it is a collection of restored, original buildings dating back to the 17th and 18th Centuries. Several were open to view with original features, fittings and furniture plus a couple of people "in character" as the Lady of the House and a Russian Jewish immigrant.

It's terribly well done and pretty educational, though I would have been more interested if the exhibits had included some more modern homes.

Coast

I do like to be beside the seaside. I do like to be beside the sea, which is why I just adored the stretch of coastline that I drove today in my usual efforts to avoid the Interstate Highways. I drove along a good deal of the short New Hampshire coastline and it is absolutely beautiful. The sea was whipping in today on a feisty wind giving me the impression I was in a Guinness commercial.

The houses along the coast here are as big and beautiful as the sea. I'm no realtor, but I know expensive, desirable homes when I see them.

Big City

I mentioned the other day that it's surprising to me how quiet so many American cities have appeared to me. My drive into Boston today proved the point, by being the exception to that rule. The traffic was pretty horrible, but the city is good looking and I look forward to investigating further tomorrow. In the meantime though, I did have one appointment in the city...

Take Me Out To Another Ballpark

You'll know by now how much I enjoy a good tour so I couldn't resist a guided trip around Fenway Park, the oldest Major League Baseball Stadium and home of the Boston Red Sox.

As a good Twins fan, I didn't miss the opportunity to wear my Minnesota hat and tee-shirt. The guide picked up on this and when he asked for people to speak up with which team they back, I was not the only Twins fan there.

Baseball, being the all inclusive sport that it is, there was no issue with my allegiance, in fact the Twins and the Sox share two things at the moment. We've both just lost Divisional Series 0 and 3 and, as it was New York that beat Minnesota, we both hate the New York Yankees.

Fenway is a great looking park, dripping with history, but growing as best it can within the bounds of a small ground. Various arrays of seating have been added above the existing stands and, most interestingly, on top of the famous "Green Monster"; a 37 foot tall wall in left field.

Go The Distance

Now here's the clever part. In a call-back to my visit to Iowa, in the movie "Field of Dreams" our hero Ray (Kevin Costner) takes disillusioned writer Terrence Mann (James Earl Jones) to a game at Fenway Park. In the movie, they both see a mysterious message about an obscure player named Archie Graham (Burt Lancaster / Frank Whaley) who lived in Chisholm Minnesota... and I've been there too!

I am the QUEEN of movie locations!

Thank you and Goodnight.

View Driving Day 61 in a larger map

visited 38 states (76%)

Create your own visited map of The United States

Stats - Day Eighty-Seven

Distance travelled - 80 miles - Kittery, ME to Boston, MA via Strawbery Banke Museum, the New Hampshire / Massachusetts coast and Fenway Park.

State entered - Massachusetts

State count - 38 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229, 115, 108, 106

*room switch

Almost Halfway Around The Globe

Sunday, 18 October 2009

Road Trip Day 60

Well, I still felt a little under the weather this morning but a couple of pain killers and a bowl of cereal seemed to do the trick and I was on the road once more. Planning where I'd end up tonight proved to be a bit tricky as the "Closed for the Season" signs are going up all over the area. The cute looking motel I wanted to stay at didn't reply or return my message. Still, it's all part of the fun and as you can tell by reading this, I'm not sleeping in the car.

The Other Portland

OK, strictly speaking there are many, many settlements named Portland, but the Portland I visited today is in Maine. Like the other Portland in Oregon, this is also the largest in the state. Unlike the one in Oregon, the weather here was lousy... but that isn't the fault of the city pre se, more of my timing.

Given the cold, rain and wind I planned an indoor treat and visited the Portland Museum of Art. I really enjoyed strolling around the galleries and was pleased when I identified a painting as a Magritte before reading the label and also correctly spotted a couple in the "pointillist" style and was right about those too.

I growing very fond of visiting art galleries and plan to take advantage of reduced entry for out-of-work bums like me in London.

There and Back Again... 6.75 times

As I pulled away from my parking space outside the gallery in Portland my Trip Meter ticked over from 9,998.9 to 0.0. I've no idea why it missed out 9,999.9 but someone at the labs at Dodge probably does.

Anyway, let's not quibble over 1 mile, I've driven 10,000 miles since I picked the car up at LAX.

TEN THOUSAND MILES!

If I'd started from my house in Lancing on the English south cost and driven to the northern most point on the UK Mainland then back home, I would be on my way home for the seventh time with only a couple of hundred miles to go.

To put it another way... actually, let's not bother. No matter how you compare it, 10,000 is a hell of a long way in 60 days. And seeing as how I that makes an average of over 166 miles a day, I don't feel so bad for feeling a tad tired.

Kennebunkport

I drove through and around the village of Kennebunkport. Even in this horrible weather it was packed with tourists and, I suspect, at least one Texan. I didn't fully realise at the time, but I passed a big house on a spit of land which was flying the Lone Star flag of Texas alongside the Stars 'n' Stripes.

It turns out this is the Bush Compound, retreat of George HW and GW Bush and families. Had I known I would have stopped and hopped out for a photo at the convenient pull-in. George(s), if you are reading this, sorry I didn't stop by. Email me and we can set something up for next time.

Where Am I?

Driving sleet, a late start and a closed bridge all conspired to keep me from making it to my next chosen destination in Portsmouth, New Hampshire so at 3:30 this afternoon I threw in the towel and stopped at the first open motel I found.

That is how I happen to be in Kittery, Maine in a "villa". In this case, villa is used to describe a rather fetching little wooden cabin. So, I have an entire building to myself tonight.

Sometimes it Snows in October

So, I hunkered down and have planned my last three hotel nights that I needed to book and sorted some admin things like argue with the car rental company, again.

When I emerged to drive out to buy and suitcase and then on to dinner it was snowing. Not settling, but snowing heavy, soggy flakes. I got back a couple of hours ago and haven't looked out of the window since.

Please cross your fingers that the snow does not lay.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 60 in a larger map

Stats - Day Eighty-Six

Distance travelled - 91 miles - Brunswick to Kittery, ME

State count - 37 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229, 115, 108

*room switch

Maine Stay

Saturday, 17 October 2009

Road Trip Day 59

Where yesterday I saw the rugged interior of New England, today I saw the more famed crinkly coastline.

I still felt a bit rough when I woke, and still do now. Basically I have some kind of tummy upset which is giving me cramps and making me feel very tired. I'm improving but still feel washed out.

Model Villages

With my fatigued state in mind, I booked a hotel not very far from my start point and planned a simple route out to some of the landmark harbour towns, the first of which was the unspeakably pretty Rockport.

Beautiful clapboard buildings were the order of the day and Rockport was pleasantly quiet compared to neighbouring Camden. Apparently the two towns split in a dispute over a bridge between the two. Camden has more tourist draws, but Rockport retains tranquillity.

Long View

The weather reports show that I am surrounded by bad weather, with snow north, west and south of Maine. However, here in Vacationland (as the Maine licence plates say) it was bright, sunny and not too cold.

This meant that I got a fantastic view from the summit at Camden Hills State Park. I surprisingly hefty fee allowed me to drive up to the viewing tower at the top of the park where I found an extraordinary view of the coast and islands.

Go West

Camden in Maine will be the farthest point east that I go on my trip and from here I followed the picturesque Highway 1 along the coast through more stunning little towns.

At Rockland, I had to take a break though and pulled into a quiet side street for a safety related sleep.

A brief nap did the trick and meant I could make the final leg to my overnight stay here in Brunswick.

I hope to feel even better tomorrow and an early night will help.

Goodnight.

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Stats - Day Eighty-Five

Distance travelled - 138 miles - Lewiston to Brunswick, ME via pretty villages and crinkly coast.

State count - 37 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229, 115

*room switch

Walking In A Winter Wonderland

Friday, 16 October 2009

Road Trip Day 58

Well, today I learned that there's more to New England than a crinkly coastline.

Another State

As the crow flies, my final destination today isn't that far from where I started but the route was far from direct. So, I got on the road reasonably early and headed east into New Hampshire. I'd planned a route along some very scenic roads with plenty of stopping opportunities including this one at the almost deserted Echo Lake Beach where the snow was a nice contrast to the Fall foliage.

Next stop was "The Basin" an almost circular pothole formed by rocks swirling in the granite bedrock.

White Mountains

Next the climb up the White Mountain Range began. There had been a little snow lower down, but a couple of inches was still lying up here. The roads were clear and dry as a bone, but it made for a pretty scene.

Also in the mountain range is Mount Washington, the highest point in the state and dominates the surrounding area.

From Mount Washington it was a short hop into Maine which is where I am tonight. So, two new states in one day... which isn't difficult in this part of the USA.

That's All Folks

Sadly, for the first time on my trip I've felt a little poorly today. Nothing serious, but I do need to stop sitting at this desk and get some sleep.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 58 in a larger map

visited 37 states (74%)

Create your own visited map of The United States

Stats - Day Eighty-Four

Distance travelled - 217 miles - Barre, VT to Lewiston, ME via New Hampshire and the White Mountains.

States entered - New Hampshire, Maine

State count - 37 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229

*room switch

Cold

Thursday, 15 October 2009

Road Trip Day 57

Last night I made a list of destinations for today. Sadly, the lateness of the season is playing against me now and both the Adirondack Scenic Railway and Lake Champlain ferry have finished for the season.

Onwards and Upwards

So, with my final chosen destinations in New York State closed, it was time to head into my next state, Vermont.

I passed through Lake Placid on the way, a town still dining out on having twice hosted the Winter Olympics. The frigid weather and snow covered Adirondack mountains only added to the winter theme of my day.

Brown Sign Moment

I had another, brief brown tourist sign moment today when I happened upon the Vergennes Falls. A pretty set of falls which attracted an industrial centre when harnessed for power in the mid 1800's. Now the industry is long gone and what's left is a town that Vergennes own website calls a "Little City on the Falls".

From Vergennes, Vermont's first city to Burlington, it's largest. I only had a quick layover for a wander and lunch, but again, a quiet and pleasant place visit.

Another Factory Visit

On my trip I've seen Tabasco, Whiskey and Airlines being made. I can now add Ice Cream to that list following my visit to Ben & Jerry's Factory Tour in Waterbury. The factory is Vermont's biggest tourist draw and the presentation is a suitable mix of the founder's hippy ideals and the new corporate owner's slick money-making ethic.

The tour group bought into the experience and we "Mooed" when required and laughed at the guide's closing jokes. One was reasonably good actually...

Q. What do you call a cow that's just given birth?

A. Decalfeinated!

Pretty as a Picture

Just north of Waterbury is the picture postcard village of Stowe. It was getting late by now and the sun was going down which gave one of the prettiest views of the day on my way to Stowe. The sun caught the snow covered mountain peaks between the grumpy clouds and autumn trees. Stunning view and one which made me wish I had a better camera.

Stowe itself was as lovely as my guide book had suggested with the standout building being the beautiful Meeting House with it's tall, slender spire.

The residences and shops were a lovely assortment too and my favourite amongst them was this one with an ornate upstairs balcony.

Capitol Idea

Montpelier is the smallest US State capital city, but it doesn't mean the Capitol Building itself is any less grand than the others I have seen on my trip. Yes, it's smaller than the vast affairs in Wisconsin and Minnesota but it has the pre-requisite golden dome and colonnades.

Tomorrow looks to be a very scenic one as I head through Vermont and into the wild interior of New Hampshire.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 57 in a larger map

visited 35 states (70%)

Create your own visited map of The United States

Stats - Day Eighty-Three

Distance travelled - 169 miles - Saranac Lake, NY to Barre, VT via Burlington, Ben & Jerry's Factory Tour, Stowe and Montpelier

State entered - Vermont

State count - 35 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16

*room switch

Tales of the Unexpected

Wednesday, 14 October 2009

Road Trip Day 56

I slept very well last night at Otter Creek Inn in sleepy Alexandria Bay down on the St Lawrence Seaway. The vacation season is pretty much over in "Alex Bay" with most restaurants closed up, motels closing at the end of the week and souvenir shops selling at discount prices.

Despite, or many because of this quietening of the area, I had an unexpectedly great time today.

Hibernating Houses

After breakfast at the Broken Yolk, a café in the morning, nightclub at night, I drove over to Wellesley Island, one of the largest islands in the group, to visit Thousand Island Park, a community originally set up by Methodists in the 1800's. There are around 300 "cottages" left in the idyllic little community, and by cottages I mean sometimes huge 3 to 4 storey houses in the style I am growing to love so very much.

Another consequence of the looming winter, which I have heard described as "brutal" around here, is the need to protect your boat and your house from the cold and snow. Many were covered in custom fit canvases.

Others were boarded up, including this one which brightens up its shutters with natty Christmas decorations.

Boat Trip

With a camera full of beautiful houses, I returned to Alexandria Bay to get on board for a boat tour around the 1000 Islands. First off, there are considerably more than 1,000. There's over 1,800 islands, and the criteria by which they are declared to be islands is that they must be above water 365 days a year and have at least one living tree on it.

They vary in size from over 18 miles long to this, the smallest, named Tom Thumb. The 15 is a speed limit, they haven't numbered the islands.

Our excellent, young local tour guide related many stories of the rich owners of the sometimes huge mansions, most of which seem to have belonged to assorted industrialists and the occasional eccentric.

The piece de resistance though is the enormous Boldt Castle, built in the early 1900's by Waldorf-Astoria Proprietor George Boldt as a gift to his wife, but never quite completed due to her untimely death from Consumption (which is what killed all Victorian era women if I understand history correctly).

Oh, and yes, the Salad Dressing was created by a local family and popularised when George Boldt took it back to the Waldorf-Astoria... presumably served on Waldorf Salad?

Unexpected Surprise

The Thousand Islands are extremely beautiful, surrounded by the very clear, cool St Lawrence Seaway and populated by pretty trees and stunning houses. I really enjoyed my time here, not only because it's a fabulous place to be, but also as it was potentially just somewhere that I would pass through. It's happened before on my trip that a convenient stop-over has turned out to be an absolute treat and I love pleasant surprises.

One Thing Leads to Another

One of the industrialists that our guide mentioned was Edward John Noble, who, amongst other things invented the "Lifesaver" sweet, the English equivalent of which is the Polo Mint. Their rounded shape with a hole in the middle was apparently a response to the problem of kids choking on sweets. The hole would allow them to breath if it got lodged in their throat... apparently.

Anyway, our guide explained that Noble was from the nearby town of Gouverneur and that the Rotary Club have erected a memorial to him there. However, it's not a statue of the inventor. Instead, they put up a giant replica of the invention.

Gouverneur was on my route so I stopped by to take a photo.

Needless to say, this silly sight is listed on the Roadside America site.

Pull Over!

No, I haven't been pulled over by the police again, but I have had to make rapid stops three times today for photo opportunities.

First, it turns out I am still in Amish country and after seeing a couple of pony and traps on the roads, here's one at a gas station. I guess the driver is inside buying hay... or figuring our where in his horse he should stick the nozzle?

Next was a flock of Wild Turkeys. It's so odd to see full size turkey's wandering around the verges. They are big, dumb looking beggers.

Finally, look which county the town I am staying in tonight is in.

This Essex girl has come home, sorta.

And Finally

Here's another special mention for restaurant staff. After a lovely prime rib dinner, I helped myself to a mint on the way out. It was a funny looking mint, soft with a coloured strip in the middle. I chomped away and it was de-lish-ous! I stopped in my tracks, went back into the restaurant and asked where they got them from, hoping it would be a local shop so I could by some.

My waitress didn't know so fetched a chap from the kitchen who does the ordering. Well, he explained they buy them a supplier in Queens, New York City and before I knew what was going on a large poly-cup was produced and they poured me a huge heap of "Jelly Mints". Again, I am so impressed by the kindness of strangers and very grateful because these little sweeties are so moreish.

We got chatting and I explained about my road trip and we discussed highlights and it turns out he hadn't even heard of Crater Lake, let alone been there. I think I did a good job of selling it to him.

Thanks to Ed, Amanda and the meeter-greeter chap who's name I didn't catch at The Red Fox Restaurant and Lounge, Saranac Lake, New York State.

Goodnight.

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Stats - Day Eighty-Two

Distance travelled - 127 miles - Alexandria Bay to Saranac Lake , NY

State count - 34 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4

*room switch