Vegas, Baby!

Sunday, 16 August 2009

Trek Day 19

We left Zion after a generous lie-in and started the short, but aesthetically stunning trip to Las Vegas. We made no stops on the way, save for gas, lunch and a photo opportunity at the Nevada state line, but we did get a great view of the Mohave dessert, including some Joshua Trees. They are not actually trees, but are part to the Yuka family and are unique to the Mohave.

Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas

Vegas loomed over the horizon as we approached from the east with the tower of the Stratosphere Casino Hotel dominating. As we got closer, the city resolved from mirage into gaudy, saucy reality and we arrived at The Strip. The extravagantly modelled hotels, casinos and bars dominate completely and stand-outs for me were Caesar's Palace, The Bellagio and New York, New York.

At the far end of the strip is our hotel, The Luxor. It's the giant black glass pyramid with the huge spot light shining upwards from the peak after dark. Our group however is staying in the more conventionally shaped West Tower. I guess we're not missing much except a sloping window and potential bump on the head.

First Impressions

Though warmer than my feelings for New Orleans, part of me was worried I'd not like Vegas, though this sense of doubt was largely fuelled by talk amongst my group of getting completely smashed.

We checked in (eventually, after 45 minutes of administrative nonsense) and, as luck would have it, I've got a room to myself.

I took my time getting ready, and unpacked all my bags so I can repack and consolidate all my small bags when I leave and head for LA and the open road.

Dinner was at the all you can eat buffet in our hotel. Kate was fidgety and kept disappearing. Our suspicions of what was on her were confirmed when we left the hotel and were ushered to our stretch Hummer Limo. We climbed in, champagne was distributed plus a Snapple Ice Tea for me (thanks Kate, you've the best!) and the R&B hits boomed from the sound system.

Anywhere but Las Vegas I'd have hated this, but cruising down the strip this hideous excess seemed to be just right. Again, Jenny, one of my Trek-mates reached out the hand of genuine friendship and helped me let myself go and roll with it. She's done this a few times and I really do appreciate it.

We made a couple of stops on the tour, first at the "Welcome to Las Vegas" sign and then at the world's largest video screen above the street at Fremont Street. I'd been told about the video screen and it's very impressive, though it's a shame that the presentation we saw was a "remember 1969" themed video montage over American Pie. It was nice, but I wanted to see jet planes and space ships.

Fountains

The limousine ride ended at The Bellagio where we wandered down to the fountains to wait for the next scheduled display. The fountains are magnificent and, as one of Kate's previous passengers told her, only in America would you find such mix of technology and artistry. The fountains dance, sway and blast skywards in perfect synchronisation with one of over 300 tunes.

It's quite lovely and are most closely comparable to a firework display. Both displays we stayed for were, appropriately enough, Frank Sinatra songs.

It is what it is...

By now, I was beginning to warm to Las Vegas. It's rude, loud and incredibly gaudy, but once you get used to it, it's OK. At least it isn't claiming to be anything other than a money machine powered by gambling, booze and lust.

We made our way to an outdoor bar, specifically chosen for it's fences which would allow our one passenger who is below 21 to hop over and gain entry without troubling the security guards who were checking everyone's ID... well, everyone except me apparently. I'm not offended, honest... sniff.

I continued my policy of embracing the situation and joined my fellow travellers by the stage where we rocked out the live band, The Crashers, who were banging out the rock classics. I particularly enjoyed letting rip to Living on a Prayer.

Tears (Not Mine) Before Bedtime

Sadly, the night ended prematurely for my gang as a lost passport meant heated discussions and tears for several of the group. I'll spare the details as it's not fair on those involved, but I hope the morning brings an amicable end to a rather nasty episode.

Now it's 3:30am and I'm back in my room having taken a cab back with some of the girls.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty Three

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 143 - Zion Canyon Campground and RV Park, UT to The Luxor Hotel and Casino, NV.

States entered - Nevada

State count - 15 + DC

Zion

Saturday, 15 August 2009

Trek Day 18

It appears the whole group, our leader included were shattered last night and all good intentions of an early start to a day trekking in Zion National Park were lost as we had a good lie in. I surfaced around 8:00am and got ready very slowly. I left the campground around 9:30 and took the free shuttle bus into the park.

To my ongoing annoyance, my hip is still playing up so I didn't tackle anything strenuous. I am so disappointed to be in such prime walking country with an iffy hip. Grrr...

In the Canyon

Unlike Grand Canyon you are right down on the floor rather than above looking down. This gives a different perspective, but the size of Zion is very much smaller than it's geologically older cousin.

So, rather than hike, I took advantage of some of the other facilities and attended a Park Ranger talk on the geology of Zion. After that I watched the orientation movie before getting another shuttle into the canyon proper.

I made several stops took one brief hike out to weeping rock, which is an undercut cliff where water pours from the rock above as porous sandstone sits on top of a layer of shale. It's a very soothing spot with cool drop raining down. It was very tranquil, but a little busy given the ease of the walk.

I took the shuttle to all the stops on it route then bought a dog and a soda for lunch and arrived back in camp in early afternoon.

Good Connection

I've spent the afternoon in the Reception office where there is good strong free internet. I have finally gone back and updated the distances travelled, though I hope to enhance the route and distance aspect further with an on-going map of my route. Kate has kindly showed me the route she's taken so I can start mapping it on a Google map. More to follow.

Last Night Camping

Tonight is our last night under canvas. To my own surprise, now that we are in the dryer states, I have grown quite used to it. It's no longer a chore to pitch and take down. I've found ways to be reasonably comfy. I've adapted.

That said though, I am very much looking forward to a night in a queen size bed tomorrow. I'm looking forward to taking a shower barefoot rather than in my Crocks for fear of whatever is on the floor.

Anyway, to mark our last night camping, Kate cooked dinner. She made Pesto Chicken Pasta and, as I don't like Pesto, she boiled me some potatoes and kept some chicken out just for me. So kind.

After dinner we had our last Pow-Wow activity. To be honest I found it rather awkward as we were given a bunch of index cards stapled together and asked to write our names on the top. Then we passed them to our left and had to write something nice about the person whose cards we just received. I struggled with this as it's not really something I enjoy and found it difficult to summarise what I felt.

Faithful Tent

Since my tent mate moved out to share with two others in a single tent I have been on my own in this one. Frankly that suits me just fine and for the last week I have been able to sprawl my stuff about the whole tent and have enough room to swing a cat. It also means I am able to sit and type my blog at the end of the day.

I'll miss this tent... just not very much.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty Two

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 0 - Stayed at Zion Canyon Campground and RV Park, UT.

State count - 14 + DC

Two More National Parks

Friday, 14 August 2009

Trek Day 17

It was with little regret that I left Easton's and the partying that went with it behind. It was, however, one of the prettiest settings for a campsite and well equipped too. Still, as I have said before, that's water under the bridge now.

Those with hangovers appreciated the impromptu stop at MacDonald's. I was still full of Cheerios so passed on the MacMuffins and had a little heart-to-heart with Kate about group dynamics and so forth. It helped for me to talk, especially after a night which, to my old, sober eyes, was pretty rowdy, not to say inconsiderate behaviour.

With the air cleared and groggy bellies filled, we hit the road on the way to the latest of Kate's "surprise" stops.

Surprise!

We've had a number of surprise stops en route with some well received such as the Jack Daniels distillery (not to my liking but most others did) and some less so, namely the Tabasco Factory in Louisiana.

Today's surprise was stunning though and another highlight of the trip. We stopped at Bryce Canyon National Park. The main draw here is the Hoodoos which are tall pillars of rock, sculpted by nature into various peculiar forms.

Bryce Canyon, like Zion and Grand Canyon sits on the Colorado Plateau but the erosion here has resulted in a deep canyon full of these strange looking pillars. Again, and with apologies, they do have to be seen to be fully appreciated, but I will post photos when I have a strong connection and plenty of time.

I took a stroll along the rim to see the two main areas of columns be fore returning to our faithful van for the remainder of the journey to our two day stop at Zion National Park.

Zion

Apparently, when Mormon explorers came through this area they believed it to resemble the biblical Zion and named it accordingly.

We entered the park and took the scenic switchback drive down the canyon. The road s-twists and turns down to the bottom of the canyon and gives fantastic views of the geology here. There's also a long tunnel for part of the journey with occasional cut-outs in the tunnel walls allowing glimpses of the chasm you are entering.

Our Last Campsite

We're here for two nights before driving on the Las Vegas for two days, so this was the last time we'd be pitching our tents. A relief to all of us as it can be quite a chore moving from camp to camp.

Burgers were on the menu tonight and I took the opportunity to feed my face with three tasty patties. Greedy maybe, but after missing out on 2 or 3 of the community prepared meals, I don't feel guilty.

Chillax

With my appetite satisfied I showered and sat around with the girls to chill out. The three guys in the group had gone to see the girls in the parallel who, to my unashamedly great relief have been given a spot right over the other side of the campsite. I am so relieved not to be near them. I'm assured by my fellow travellers that they are each, individually, lovely girls, but as a herd they are insufferable. They also bring out the worst in our three male companions.

With the men away I had a chance to bond with the girls here and feel a thaw in relations. My thanks go to the booking clerk who put our parallel tours so far apart.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Twenty One

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 60 - Easton's Campground, UT to Zion Canyon Campground and RV Park, UT.

State count - 14 + DC

Burgers eaten - 7. That's a rise of 3 in a day, but we'd been apportioned 2 each yet there were still some left over and I hate to see good food go to waste.

Utah

Thursday, 13 August 2009

Trek Day 16

Today we left the Grand Canyon behind and headed into Utah. An increasingly confusing time-zone situation means we've lost an hour again today, meaning I am 7 hours behind the UK again now. I get the hour back on the road to Las Vegas in a few days.

Nothing to Do

We had one stop today, at Lake Powell, the reservoir created by the building of the Glen Canyon damn at Page in Utah. It was a bit of a hike down to the lake due to the recent years of drought in this part of the USA so I declined the swim.

Easton's

Tonight we are camping in the middle of nowhere in Utah at a campground known as Eastons. Easton is a former TrekAmerica tour leader and his ground here is set up with this kind of tour in mind. There's even a sound proof party room.

The setting for Easton's Campsite is breath-taking, with escarpments in the near-distance on three sides. There was a storm tracking across one side a few miles away as we arrived, but it didn't hit us. The angry sky though did mean that we were treated to another magical sunset.

Wasted

My group are on a mission to get wasted. We've got so much booze on board that Burt Reynolds had to drive up front in a Trans Am.

For a reformed, non-drinker, there is nothing more boring than watching a bunch of people make the transition from coherent individual to blithering fool. That's not to say I have anything against people drinking and having a good time, it's just that it is so very dull from an outsiders point of view. I chose to make myself an outsider in the world of alcohol and I don't regret that decision... but being around pissed people is tedious.

As I type this, the three TrekAmerica groups who are here tonight have been ushered into the soundproof party room after several hours of loud drinking games at our camps. Goodness only knows how late and how loudly they will return.

[Edit: The answers to my speculation above were "very" and "extremely.]

Goodnight... not.

Stats - Day Twenty

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 79 - Grand Canyon Caravan Park, Tusayan, AZ to Easton's Campground, UT.

State count - 14 + DC

Another Day, Another Sunrise

Wednesday, 12 August 2009

Trek Day 15

We were up before dawn again today for sunrise over The Grand Canyon. Kate whisked us out of the van and down to an outcrop sticking out into the canyon. We settled down to muffins and juice and waited for the big event.

It was hazy this morning with mist filling the canyon to the brim. The sky brightened gradually and we were treated to a false sunrise as reflections made a larger globe appear on the horizon ahead of the Sun itself. Another fantastic way to start a day.

Bad Timing

A few days ago, I got lumbered with the back seat on the van a couple of days running. I'm not sure how, but at some stage I think I fell asleep with all my weight skewed on one hip. Since then it's been giving me niggling pain. Today was no exception.

So, it was obvious that a trip down into the canyon was out of the question, though frankly, given the heat I think I got a better deal by taking the Rim Walk.

I started reasonably well, but had a distinct limp and pain when I took my first few paces after each stop. The Rim Walk runs alongside the free shuttle bus service so after 2 or 3 miles of discomfort, I started to use the bus to take me between each view point. I was disappointed not to be able to stride out along the rim, especially as the early start meant the trail was almost deserted.

I got some tremendous views and a wide variety too, so am happy not to have slogged down the path as most of the rest of the group did.

I caught a lot of wildlife on the route including deer, chipmonks, squirrel, butterflies, various birds and some great bugs.

Unmountains

OK. So in yesterday's blog I said there was no way to describe the Grand Canyon. Today I found a word. "Unmountains". If you were to create the most intricate and beautiful mountain range , then turn it upside-down and push it into a vast flat plain you have the Grand Canyon.

It messes with you mind in such an exquisite way. Your world is inverted. You stood at the top of inside-out mountains.

We got back to camp in good time for an afternoon nap and, as we were all tired, we went to a steakhouse for dinner. Now it's not long after 9:00pm and people are going to bed. Once I've wandered over to the office to upload this, I'll be doing the same.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Nineteen

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 0 - stayed at Grand Canyon Caravan Park, Tusayan, AZ.

State count - 14 + DC

Sun Up to Sun Down

Tuesday, 11 August 2009

Trek Day 14

Pre-Dawn

Well, I guess my day started at 4:15am really. That is when nature called and stirred me from my sleep. I padded over to the "drop toilet" (of which we will speak no further) and answered the call. On the way back, I stopped to look around me. It was a bright night, lit by a 3/4 moon. All around were the massive shapes of the Mesas and Buttes I had seen earlier in the day. Above me, crystal clear sky with familiar constellations of The Big Dipper (I'd call it The Plough, but when in Rome...) and Orion. Thee was nothing to hear save for my own breath.

I'll be saving that moment in my head forever.

I walked back to my sleeping bag and snuggled down for another hour's sleep before our pre-dawn wake-up call.

Sunrise

I'd gone to bed fully clothed in anticipation of the 5:00am rise. Elated from a night under the moon and stars, I bounced out of bag, grabbed my pillow and back-pack and climbed onto the jeep. At 5:15am we headed for a spot overlooking The Totem Pole mesa and waited.

Sunrise in Monument Valley is special and well worth some bathroom inconvenience and an early start. We sat around, pretty much in silence. A couple of crows flew past and broke the silence, but otherwise we gazed as one at the rising sun.

Pictures taken and video shot, we returned to the Hogan and prepared to leave Monument Valley. As we drove out, Tony sang a traditional farewell song... and I had a little cry.

Breakfast

No-one was in the mood for our camping breakfast supplies of Cheerios and the ever-present bagels, so Kate took us to an American Diner for breakfast. This was possibly one of the best decisions we've know on the trip and generous orders were placed. I had bacon, 1 egg over easy, hash-browns, white toast and a side of sausage with coffee and OJ. Bloody delicious.

Day

The day was pretty laid back with only 4 hours journey to the Grand Canyon, broken up with a stop at a gift shop en route.

Matinee

When we arrived at The Grand Canyon National Park, Kate mysteriously asked us to get out of the van with only our cameras and sun-block. We were then stood in single file beside the van. Then we were ordered to put our hands on the shoulders of the person in front of us and close our eyes.

Going entirely on trust, Kate then lead us along, snake style to the edge of the Grand Canyon. She didn't want us to get even a glimpse before we could see it all.

It was a wonderful wheeze and I am very grateful to Kate for doing this for us... even though she later admitted to leading us in a circle at first as she paraded us around the car park!

No Words

There is very little point in trying to describe the Grand Canyon to you. Words like huge, vast, breath-taking, awesome and majestic pale when you are confronted with a jagged scar through the Earth, a mile deep, up to 18 miles wide at points and getting on for 300 miles long. It's a mind-wrenching. You as far as you can see in both directions is Canyon and it goes on and on and on.

I strongly recommend visiting if you ever possibly can... and if you can find a mischievous Minnesotan girl to lead you there with your eyes closed, all the better.

Sunset

We spent an hour there taking snap shots and trying to get our heads around the scale of the thing before heading on for a 20 minute drive to our campsite.

Tents up. Bags checked, dinner cooked (but not eaten by me... pasta in Ragu with a few vegetables cut into it? I don't bloody think so!)

We went back to the Canyon for sunset; an entirely more crowded event, with a myriad languages politely jostling for the best view. For a gorge of this size, you'd think we'd all get a look in. I found a rock to stand myself and my video camera on and watched the sun set over one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World.

Topped and Tailed

An American lady asked about my video camera and after explaining that I was filming the spectacle, I told her that the video prior to this was this morning's sunrise at Monument Valley. "How's that for a day?" I joked. "A fine one" she replied.

It's now gone 10pm, as we've gained another hour as Arizona believe in Daylight Savings Time, and I am freezing my bottom off on a picnic table before an early night.

Kate is getting us up at 5:00am for a Grand Canyon sunrise. Best scurry over to the reception centre where the Wi-Fi signal works and upload this entry.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Eighteen

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) - 132 miles - Monument Valley, AZ to Grand Canyon Caravan Park, Tusayan, AZ.

State count - 14 + DC

Pizza count - 3... I stopped off for one at the entrance to the camp after sunset. A small "Bacon Cheese Burger" Pizza, to go.

Monument Valley

It's Tuesday morning and I'm in the front row of the van. We had no power or internet last night... besides, I was otherwise occupied last night.

Monday, 10 August 2009

Trek Day 13

I didn't get a very good night's sleep last night. The group was sat around the camp fire, bonding, when the Parallel tour came back from a night in the bars of Santa Fe. The other group, or "The Minors" as we have dubbed them because they are all aged between 18 and 22, are louder, squeakier and more preoccupied with hair-straighteners and pretty dresses than our group. They also have no concept of how to be quiet... or when they are not welcome.

Sadly, their arrival prompted most of our group to leave and go to bed, leave just a few of our guys and half a dozen giggling girlies around the campfire keeping the rest of us awake.

I got about 3 hours sleep... and was not in a good mood as we left the campsite half an hour after our planned departure. Still, never mind, it's all water under the bridge now.

Four Corners

Monument valley is in a region known as the Four Corners, which is the point at which Colorado, New Mexico, Utah and Arizona meet. There's actually a monument at the exact point where the four states meet, but our schedule didn't allow us to detour to see it.

So, from New Mexico, we dipped in and out of both Arizona and Utah travelling through increasingly dramatic landscape as we approached Monument Valley itself.

When discussing my American Adventure I have always mentioned Monument Valley as a highlight. I think the combination of the anticipation, 8 hours in the van and a poor night's sleep the night before had put me on edge. By the time the classic outline of the Valley appeared on the horizon, I was quite nervous.

Jeep Tour

As a group, we'd all decided to opt into the Navajo Indian jeep tour and night in traditional dwelling so we got to the visitors centre and were introduced to our Indian guide, Tony, a lovely, gentle man with a warm smile and dry sense of humour. The tour began and all tense feelings dropped away as I became swept up in the extraordinary rock formations which make up the Mesas and Buttes of the valley. Most of the formations are named for the creatures or objects they resume such as Elephant Butte, the Mittens and Sleeping Dragon Butte. There are also many outcrops which appear as different things depending on the angle you look from. For instance, there's a point which looks like Alfred Hitchcock from one side and, disturbingly, Margaret Thatcher from the other.

The tour lasted well over 2 hours and ended with a view down the valley with the sun low in the sky. As I stood away from the jeep, away from the rest of the group in silence, it all got a bit much for me and I had a little cry. Only Kate noticed the tears rolling down my cheeks as I reboarded the jeep and she gave me a reassuring smile.

Campfire Stories

Tony, our guide and driver took us to a picnic area where we were treated to "Navajo Tacos" which are sort of deep fried, battered tortilla wraps on which they pile your choice of beans, mince, salad, salsa and cheese. Tasty and hit the mark given how hungry we all were.

It was a short drive back to where we would sleep that night and the campfire had been started for us. Sodas were laid on too and we took our seats next to the fire to listen to Tony, sing and tell stories. We listened to stories of how the formations were named, Navajo marriage rituals and of how the traditional Navajo dwelling, the Hogan is built. He sang us songs too, mostly traditional but also some he had written with the musical group to which he belongs and which has toured Europe and Asia.

The sky was clear and I saw several shooting stars as I sat by the fire. It was a wonderful way to end the day and we soon began to feel sleepy.

The Hogan is a wood and mud construction which is, frankly, boob shaped, gently domed with a small, stubby chimney on top. This is clearly by design as it is the traditional form for the female dwelling. The male Hogan is shaped differently and when viewed from above, it's clear what shape the Navajo were emulating to signify maleness.

A stove had been lit in the Hogan and it was very inviting, however, there was a second option. As the night was so clear and there were no biting insects around, we could also sleep under the stars if we wanted.

Dream Come True

Monument Valley was everything I hoped it would be; inspiring, moving and stunning both by day and night. I settled down, fully clothed, zipped up into my sleeping bag (for the first time on the trip) on my sleep mat I felt elated. Such a fantastic evening followed by a night out in the open under the moon and stars. Kate and the three boys in the group also slept outside and we all slept very well.

Very Goodnight indeed.

Stats - Day Seventeen

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) -253 - Rancheros de Santa Fe campsite NM to Monument Valley, AZ.

States entered - Arizona, Utah

State count - 14 + DC