Maine Stay

Saturday, 17 October 2009

Road Trip Day 59

Where yesterday I saw the rugged interior of New England, today I saw the more famed crinkly coastline.

I still felt a bit rough when I woke, and still do now. Basically I have some kind of tummy upset which is giving me cramps and making me feel very tired. I'm improving but still feel washed out.

Model Villages

With my fatigued state in mind, I booked a hotel not very far from my start point and planned a simple route out to some of the landmark harbour towns, the first of which was the unspeakably pretty Rockport.

Beautiful clapboard buildings were the order of the day and Rockport was pleasantly quiet compared to neighbouring Camden. Apparently the two towns split in a dispute over a bridge between the two. Camden has more tourist draws, but Rockport retains tranquillity.

Long View

The weather reports show that I am surrounded by bad weather, with snow north, west and south of Maine. However, here in Vacationland (as the Maine licence plates say) it was bright, sunny and not too cold.

This meant that I got a fantastic view from the summit at Camden Hills State Park. I surprisingly hefty fee allowed me to drive up to the viewing tower at the top of the park where I found an extraordinary view of the coast and islands.

Go West

Camden in Maine will be the farthest point east that I go on my trip and from here I followed the picturesque Highway 1 along the coast through more stunning little towns.

At Rockland, I had to take a break though and pulled into a quiet side street for a safety related sleep.

A brief nap did the trick and meant I could make the final leg to my overnight stay here in Brunswick.

I hope to feel even better tomorrow and an early night will help.

Goodnight.

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Stats - Day Eighty-Five

Distance travelled - 138 miles - Lewiston to Brunswick, ME via pretty villages and crinkly coast.

State count - 37 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229, 115

*room switch

Walking In A Winter Wonderland

Friday, 16 October 2009

Road Trip Day 58

Well, today I learned that there's more to New England than a crinkly coastline.

Another State

As the crow flies, my final destination today isn't that far from where I started but the route was far from direct. So, I got on the road reasonably early and headed east into New Hampshire. I'd planned a route along some very scenic roads with plenty of stopping opportunities including this one at the almost deserted Echo Lake Beach where the snow was a nice contrast to the Fall foliage.

Next stop was "The Basin" an almost circular pothole formed by rocks swirling in the granite bedrock.

White Mountains

Next the climb up the White Mountain Range began. There had been a little snow lower down, but a couple of inches was still lying up here. The roads were clear and dry as a bone, but it made for a pretty scene.

Also in the mountain range is Mount Washington, the highest point in the state and dominates the surrounding area.

From Mount Washington it was a short hop into Maine which is where I am tonight. So, two new states in one day... which isn't difficult in this part of the USA.

That's All Folks

Sadly, for the first time on my trip I've felt a little poorly today. Nothing serious, but I do need to stop sitting at this desk and get some sleep.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 58 in a larger map

visited 37 states (74%)

Create your own visited map of The United States

Stats - Day Eighty-Four

Distance travelled - 217 miles - Barre, VT to Lewiston, ME via New Hampshire and the White Mountains.

States entered - New Hampshire, Maine

State count - 37 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16, 229

*room switch

Cold

Thursday, 15 October 2009

Road Trip Day 57

Last night I made a list of destinations for today. Sadly, the lateness of the season is playing against me now and both the Adirondack Scenic Railway and Lake Champlain ferry have finished for the season.

Onwards and Upwards

So, with my final chosen destinations in New York State closed, it was time to head into my next state, Vermont.

I passed through Lake Placid on the way, a town still dining out on having twice hosted the Winter Olympics. The frigid weather and snow covered Adirondack mountains only added to the winter theme of my day.

Brown Sign Moment

I had another, brief brown tourist sign moment today when I happened upon the Vergennes Falls. A pretty set of falls which attracted an industrial centre when harnessed for power in the mid 1800's. Now the industry is long gone and what's left is a town that Vergennes own website calls a "Little City on the Falls".

From Vergennes, Vermont's first city to Burlington, it's largest. I only had a quick layover for a wander and lunch, but again, a quiet and pleasant place visit.

Another Factory Visit

On my trip I've seen Tabasco, Whiskey and Airlines being made. I can now add Ice Cream to that list following my visit to Ben & Jerry's Factory Tour in Waterbury. The factory is Vermont's biggest tourist draw and the presentation is a suitable mix of the founder's hippy ideals and the new corporate owner's slick money-making ethic.

The tour group bought into the experience and we "Mooed" when required and laughed at the guide's closing jokes. One was reasonably good actually...

Q. What do you call a cow that's just given birth?

A. Decalfeinated!

Pretty as a Picture

Just north of Waterbury is the picture postcard village of Stowe. It was getting late by now and the sun was going down which gave one of the prettiest views of the day on my way to Stowe. The sun caught the snow covered mountain peaks between the grumpy clouds and autumn trees. Stunning view and one which made me wish I had a better camera.

Stowe itself was as lovely as my guide book had suggested with the standout building being the beautiful Meeting House with it's tall, slender spire.

The residences and shops were a lovely assortment too and my favourite amongst them was this one with an ornate upstairs balcony.

Capitol Idea

Montpelier is the smallest US State capital city, but it doesn't mean the Capitol Building itself is any less grand than the others I have seen on my trip. Yes, it's smaller than the vast affairs in Wisconsin and Minnesota but it has the pre-requisite golden dome and colonnades.

Tomorrow looks to be a very scenic one as I head through Vermont and into the wild interior of New Hampshire.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 57 in a larger map

visited 35 states (70%)

Create your own visited map of The United States

Stats - Day Eighty-Three

Distance travelled - 169 miles - Saranac Lake, NY to Barre, VT via Burlington, Ben & Jerry's Factory Tour, Stowe and Montpelier

State entered - Vermont

State count - 35 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4, 16

*room switch

Tales of the Unexpected

Wednesday, 14 October 2009

Road Trip Day 56

I slept very well last night at Otter Creek Inn in sleepy Alexandria Bay down on the St Lawrence Seaway. The vacation season is pretty much over in "Alex Bay" with most restaurants closed up, motels closing at the end of the week and souvenir shops selling at discount prices.

Despite, or many because of this quietening of the area, I had an unexpectedly great time today.

Hibernating Houses

After breakfast at the Broken Yolk, a café in the morning, nightclub at night, I drove over to Wellesley Island, one of the largest islands in the group, to visit Thousand Island Park, a community originally set up by Methodists in the 1800's. There are around 300 "cottages" left in the idyllic little community, and by cottages I mean sometimes huge 3 to 4 storey houses in the style I am growing to love so very much.

Another consequence of the looming winter, which I have heard described as "brutal" around here, is the need to protect your boat and your house from the cold and snow. Many were covered in custom fit canvases.

Others were boarded up, including this one which brightens up its shutters with natty Christmas decorations.

Boat Trip

With a camera full of beautiful houses, I returned to Alexandria Bay to get on board for a boat tour around the 1000 Islands. First off, there are considerably more than 1,000. There's over 1,800 islands, and the criteria by which they are declared to be islands is that they must be above water 365 days a year and have at least one living tree on it.

They vary in size from over 18 miles long to this, the smallest, named Tom Thumb. The 15 is a speed limit, they haven't numbered the islands.

Our excellent, young local tour guide related many stories of the rich owners of the sometimes huge mansions, most of which seem to have belonged to assorted industrialists and the occasional eccentric.

The piece de resistance though is the enormous Boldt Castle, built in the early 1900's by Waldorf-Astoria Proprietor George Boldt as a gift to his wife, but never quite completed due to her untimely death from Consumption (which is what killed all Victorian era women if I understand history correctly).

Oh, and yes, the Salad Dressing was created by a local family and popularised when George Boldt took it back to the Waldorf-Astoria... presumably served on Waldorf Salad?

Unexpected Surprise

The Thousand Islands are extremely beautiful, surrounded by the very clear, cool St Lawrence Seaway and populated by pretty trees and stunning houses. I really enjoyed my time here, not only because it's a fabulous place to be, but also as it was potentially just somewhere that I would pass through. It's happened before on my trip that a convenient stop-over has turned out to be an absolute treat and I love pleasant surprises.

One Thing Leads to Another

One of the industrialists that our guide mentioned was Edward John Noble, who, amongst other things invented the "Lifesaver" sweet, the English equivalent of which is the Polo Mint. Their rounded shape with a hole in the middle was apparently a response to the problem of kids choking on sweets. The hole would allow them to breath if it got lodged in their throat... apparently.

Anyway, our guide explained that Noble was from the nearby town of Gouverneur and that the Rotary Club have erected a memorial to him there. However, it's not a statue of the inventor. Instead, they put up a giant replica of the invention.

Gouverneur was on my route so I stopped by to take a photo.

Needless to say, this silly sight is listed on the Roadside America site.

Pull Over!

No, I haven't been pulled over by the police again, but I have had to make rapid stops three times today for photo opportunities.

First, it turns out I am still in Amish country and after seeing a couple of pony and traps on the roads, here's one at a gas station. I guess the driver is inside buying hay... or figuring our where in his horse he should stick the nozzle?

Next was a flock of Wild Turkeys. It's so odd to see full size turkey's wandering around the verges. They are big, dumb looking beggers.

Finally, look which county the town I am staying in tonight is in.

This Essex girl has come home, sorta.

And Finally

Here's another special mention for restaurant staff. After a lovely prime rib dinner, I helped myself to a mint on the way out. It was a funny looking mint, soft with a coloured strip in the middle. I chomped away and it was de-lish-ous! I stopped in my tracks, went back into the restaurant and asked where they got them from, hoping it would be a local shop so I could by some.

My waitress didn't know so fetched a chap from the kitchen who does the ordering. Well, he explained they buy them a supplier in Queens, New York City and before I knew what was going on a large poly-cup was produced and they poured me a huge heap of "Jelly Mints". Again, I am so impressed by the kindness of strangers and very grateful because these little sweeties are so moreish.

We got chatting and I explained about my road trip and we discussed highlights and it turns out he hadn't even heard of Crater Lake, let alone been there. I think I did a good job of selling it to him.

Thanks to Ed, Amanda and the meeter-greeter chap who's name I didn't catch at The Red Fox Restaurant and Lounge, Saranac Lake, New York State.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 56 in a larger map

Stats - Day Eighty-Two

Distance travelled - 127 miles - Alexandria Bay to Saranac Lake , NY

State count - 34 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112, 4

*room switch

It's a Wonderful Life

Tuesday, 13 October 2009

Road Trip Day 55

Today I left the internationally famous Niagara Falls for the more secluded, rather swankier central area of New York State.

Quiet in the City

The first break in my journey was in Rochester, a mid-size city on the southern shore of Lake Ontario. There was no major draw to the city, just a convenient break and a chance to see more American city architecture. Here's a rather fetching mini "Flat Iron" style building.

Rochester exhibited one of the features I've seen in many of the cities I've seen here which is it was quiet. I've been struck by how empty many American cities seem to be. Even in some parts of New York city I saw near empty streets. Chicago was no busier than Brighton, probably even less so. Maybe I'm missing the rush hours, but still, it's strange to see so few people and such little traffic on the streets; strange, but refreshingly pleasant.

More Lakes

Inland from Rochester and Lake Ontario are the considerably smaller Finger Lakes. I diverted inland and skipped along the northern tips of several of the lakes. The surrounding areas feel well heeled and the towns are filled with large, beautiful houses that I'd describe as typically "American".

The Real "Bedford Falls"

On of the prettiest of the towns I passed through today is Seneca Falls, also filled with these large, traditional houses, a perfect small town America main street and situated on a canal.

As I'd taken a stroll around town I began to notice a number of references to the classic James Stewart movie "It's a Wonderful Life"; Zuzu's Café, Hotel Clarence, a Steel Bridge over the canal and, in the public park, a Christmas tree presented to the town by The Friends of It's a Wonderful Life.

Well, it turns out Seneca Falls claims to be the inspiration for the movie. It wasn't filmed here, but the town claims enough similarities to the movie, plus apparent evidence that the director, Frank Capra must have passed through the town.

I can't mark it down as a movie location, but it's a sweet story and a delightful town to visit.

Southwick Beach

I wasn't far from my destination when I needed an energising break from the road so stopped at the appropriately named Southwick Beach. Unlike Southwick, Sussex near where I live, this beach was sandy with barbeques and pretty parklands. However, none of them were in use in the biting early fall wind blowing off the lake.

Heading East

Tomorrow, I'm set for another boat trip and then head into The Adirondacks.

Goodnight.

View Driving Day 55 in a larger map

Stats - Day Eighty-One

Distance travelled - 275 miles - Buffalo to Alexandria Bay, NY

State count - 34 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126, 112

*room switch

Groundhog Day

Sunday, 11 October 2009

Road Trip Day 53

So, where was I last night? Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania, home of the famous weather predicting Groundhog of folklore and movie stardom.

Kidding!

OK, you probably saw that coming but having stayed at the home of the Groundhog Day I couldn't resist making the obvious joke. Here's the real entry...

- + - - | - - + - - | - - + - - | - - + - - | - - + -

All Falls Down

Monday, 12 October 2009

Road Trip Day 54

I ticked another one of those huge, unmissable sites off my list today. The area around the falls is covered in Casinos, Hotels, Restaurants and observation points. It's not too horrible though and I avoided the tackier parts, heading straight for the New York State Park and started my day with a look at the main attraction. In this photo the falls closest are America Falls with a very slight gap to the much narrower Bridal Veil Falls. In the distance you can see the mist billowing around the much larger Horseshoe Falls.

Misty Misty

I bought the bundled ticket of several attractions for one price and started with the much recommended trip on the Maid of the Mist. When you board the boat it feels sturdy enough, but viewed from above you get an idea of how much it bobs around in the turbulent water below the falls.

It's a great trip to take and an international tourist rite of passage. I got suitably drenched and spent the rest of the day with squishy shoes.

Still, it was worth it, though as the day was cold it took me a long time to dry out. With that in mind I chose not to do the Cave of the Winds walk. I was temped by the attractive high grip sandals and yellow poncho, but not by the prospect of spending the rest of the day soaking wet.

Other Stuff

There are other attractions at the falls but, frankly, they are a little tired. The Discovery Centre gives some of the history and geology of the Niagara Gorge but it's very simplistic. Over the road is an Aquarium with some pretty fish, twitchy penguins and some sealions.

Still, the area is really all about the Falls themselves which are pretty spectacular and well worth the visit.

Goodnight.

Stats - Day Eighty

Distance travelled - 0 miles - Stayed in Buffalo, NY

State count - 34 + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126

*room switch

Groundhog Day

Sunday, 11 October 2009

Road Trip Day 53

So, where was I last night? Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania, home of the famous weather predicting Groundhog of folklore and movie stardom.

Following My Heart

So, yesterday as I left Pittsburgh I began to drive towards my intended destination of Erie. I glanced at my atlas for a more direct route to Buffalo and there was Punxsutawney staring back at me. Don't be silly I said to myself. You can't go there just because you really like Groundhog Day. I then thought about all the other places I have been just for movie links and it suddenly became a certainty. I rang the first hotel to appear in my Sat-Nav. They had a cheap room so that it; done deal.

An hour or two later, along a much prettier route than the nasty Interstate to Erie, I arrived in the fabled town. My hotel was suitably dated, with a large double height lobby, one slow lift, a dining room from 1974 and bathroom built from drywall in the corner of my room as a hasty conversion from the days of shared bathrooms.

The hotels, restaurants, shops and public buildings all synchronised with the image portrayed in the movie of a sweet, slightly tired town proud of its quirky place in American tradition.

I'd also like to give special mention to my waitress at the hotel, Erin. She was supremely laid back, very slightly surly but in the most endearing way and friendly yet off-hand in an overly familiar kind of fashion. She even had the nerve to recommend the only dessert they didn't have and then, when I had an alternative and enjoyed it, told me the Apple Dumplings would have been better. She was probably right...

As and when I write a screenplay / novel / lavishly embroidered autobiography, I'll be sure to include a laconic waitress named Erin.

But back to Punxsutawney in general, every other shop had a groundhog in the window, in the store sign or stood outside in giant fibreglass form.

There are over thirty of these fibreglass statues of "Punxy Phil" around the town, each one customised to a different theme. The one about is outside a bank. Below is the first one, and only one with a Top Hat. He's outside the Groundhog Zoo where the real Punxy Phil lives... except he was sleeping out back today so no photo of the real Groundhog.

I spent this morning wandering around the town centre, snapping fibreglass Phils as I went and also admiring the small scale architecture. How about this for a place to live? I'll have this one please.

Gobblers Knob

Of course, I could not leave town without a trip out to Gobblers Knob itself, on the outskirts of Punxsutawney. There's a large dais, viewing areas for family and general admission, floodlights, bathroom facilities and, of course, the stump from which Phil emerges each February 2nd to make his famous prognostication.

According to a display there, over 35,000 people turned up in 1976 (if I recall) so it's quite a big event and an even bigger money-spinner for little Punxy.

Symbolic Location

So, why does Punxsutawney feel like more than just a movie related whim? Well, it's symbolic of my situation, representing a desire to live and relive these three months over and over. But wait, now is not the time for soppy stuff. I have 2 weeks and over a thousand miles to go still. Onwards Beast!

Wood for the Trees

A short distance north from Punxsutawney, and another justification for staying there, is Allegheny National Forest. Much of the areas I've seen in Ohio, West Virginia and Pennsylvania have been heavily wooded with the glorious fall colours I have waxed lyrical about already.

But seriously, if there is any way you can get to see these colours for yourself in these states or further up in Minnesota I urge you as strongly as I can to do so. My camera doesn't capture the magnificence of this natural display. So many times I turned a bend and immediately searched for a place to stop and drink in the view.

Rolling hillsides, as far as the eye can see, covered in trees, each one seemingly a slightly different colour is a sight to behold.

My final picture on the tree theme is as much a reminder to myself as anything else. If I forget, can someone please nag me into translating my painting style from pretty girls faces to this leaf, and also some of the many flowers I have photographed with an eye to recreating on canvas.

A Million Miles (I Love You)**

A quick nod here to whichever authority is witty enough to put these signs up in Pennsylvania. A funny way to get the message across.

Oh, and I feel like I've driven a million miles now so can I take mine off?

The Empire State's Back

After "closing the donut" yesterday, today I returned to a state I've been in before; state number one on my list, New York. Of course, the difference between Upstate New York (am I using the correct term?) and New York City is like the difference between Coldplay and a talented group who deserve a great deal of acclaim and admiration.

I'm only a stones throw from Canada, but over 290 miles from the Empire State Building, so whilst I am back in a state I have visited before, it's all fresh territory.

Return of the Dee-Dee

So, tomorrow Niagara Falls from both sides, then for the last two weeks I have the six states of New England to cover before I see New York City again. No problem.

Goodnight.

P.S. The Twins were swept by The Damn Yankees and are now out of the Play-off's and so won't make it to the 2009 World Series. I obviously didn't chew hard enough.

View Driving Day 53 in a larger map

Stats - Day Seventy-Nine

Distance travelled - 194 miles - Punxsutawney, PA to Buffalo, NY via Allegheny National Forest.

States entered - New York, again

State count - 34 (still) + DC + B.C.

Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy", 35, 11, 18, 262, 216, 208, 430, 216, 59, 226, 115 / 110*, 309, 30, 8, 255, 428, 209, "Spare", 105, 207, 227, 126

*room switch

** 30 Bonus Points to anyone who knows which band have a song with this title.