Monument Valley

It's Tuesday morning and I'm in the front row of the van. We had no power or internet last night... besides, I was otherwise occupied last night.

Monday, 10 August 2009

Trek Day 13

I didn't get a very good night's sleep last night. The group was sat around the camp fire, bonding, when the Parallel tour came back from a night in the bars of Santa Fe. The other group, or "The Minors" as we have dubbed them because they are all aged between 18 and 22, are louder, squeakier and more preoccupied with hair-straighteners and pretty dresses than our group. They also have no concept of how to be quiet... or when they are not welcome.

Sadly, their arrival prompted most of our group to leave and go to bed, leave just a few of our guys and half a dozen giggling girlies around the campfire keeping the rest of us awake.

I got about 3 hours sleep... and was not in a good mood as we left the campsite half an hour after our planned departure. Still, never mind, it's all water under the bridge now.

Four Corners

Monument valley is in a region known as the Four Corners, which is the point at which Colorado, New Mexico, Utah and Arizona meet. There's actually a monument at the exact point where the four states meet, but our schedule didn't allow us to detour to see it.

So, from New Mexico, we dipped in and out of both Arizona and Utah travelling through increasingly dramatic landscape as we approached Monument Valley itself.

When discussing my American Adventure I have always mentioned Monument Valley as a highlight. I think the combination of the anticipation, 8 hours in the van and a poor night's sleep the night before had put me on edge. By the time the classic outline of the Valley appeared on the horizon, I was quite nervous.

Jeep Tour

As a group, we'd all decided to opt into the Navajo Indian jeep tour and night in traditional dwelling so we got to the visitors centre and were introduced to our Indian guide, Tony, a lovely, gentle man with a warm smile and dry sense of humour. The tour began and all tense feelings dropped away as I became swept up in the extraordinary rock formations which make up the Mesas and Buttes of the valley. Most of the formations are named for the creatures or objects they resume such as Elephant Butte, the Mittens and Sleeping Dragon Butte. There are also many outcrops which appear as different things depending on the angle you look from. For instance, there's a point which looks like Alfred Hitchcock from one side and, disturbingly, Margaret Thatcher from the other.

The tour lasted well over 2 hours and ended with a view down the valley with the sun low in the sky. As I stood away from the jeep, away from the rest of the group in silence, it all got a bit much for me and I had a little cry. Only Kate noticed the tears rolling down my cheeks as I reboarded the jeep and she gave me a reassuring smile.

Campfire Stories

Tony, our guide and driver took us to a picnic area where we were treated to "Navajo Tacos" which are sort of deep fried, battered tortilla wraps on which they pile your choice of beans, mince, salad, salsa and cheese. Tasty and hit the mark given how hungry we all were.

It was a short drive back to where we would sleep that night and the campfire had been started for us. Sodas were laid on too and we took our seats next to the fire to listen to Tony, sing and tell stories. We listened to stories of how the formations were named, Navajo marriage rituals and of how the traditional Navajo dwelling, the Hogan is built. He sang us songs too, mostly traditional but also some he had written with the musical group to which he belongs and which has toured Europe and Asia.

The sky was clear and I saw several shooting stars as I sat by the fire. It was a wonderful way to end the day and we soon began to feel sleepy.

The Hogan is a wood and mud construction which is, frankly, boob shaped, gently domed with a small, stubby chimney on top. This is clearly by design as it is the traditional form for the female dwelling. The male Hogan is shaped differently and when viewed from above, it's clear what shape the Navajo were emulating to signify maleness.

A stove had been lit in the Hogan and it was very inviting, however, there was a second option. As the night was so clear and there were no biting insects around, we could also sleep under the stars if we wanted.

Dream Come True

Monument Valley was everything I hoped it would be; inspiring, moving and stunning both by day and night. I settled down, fully clothed, zipped up into my sleeping bag (for the first time on the trip) on my sleep mat I felt elated. Such a fantastic evening followed by a night out in the open under the moon and stars. Kate and the three boys in the group also slept outside and we all slept very well.

Very Goodnight indeed.

Stats - Day Seventeen

Distance travelled (as the crow flies) -253 - Rancheros de Santa Fe campsite NM to Monument Valley, AZ.

States entered - Arizona, Utah

State count - 14 + DC