Thursday, 10 September 2009
Road Trip Day 22
I said another fond farewell to a city this morning. Cheerio Spokane, I hope to return someday.
A few miles from the hotel I turned back on to the Interstate, I-90 for the straight through run to St. Regis in Montana.
Brown Signs and the Mullan Tree
My second break today (which I'll tell you about first) was unscheduled and I was only prompted to see it thanks to the brown sign on the Interstate. These brown coloured signs are used for tourist and recreation spots and I've been using them as hints and tips for things to see. This one was a good example and lead me to learn some of the history of how the North-West was opened up to trade and population.
Captain John Mullan was in charge of a military and civilian crew who cut the first trail from Montana to Washington in the 1800's. One Fourth of July he gave the crew the day off and they kicked back and relaxed in the camp and he took the opportunity to cut the initials MR for Military Road, but subsequently referred to as Mullan's Road and put the date underneath. That was the last marker for the original road to remain after it was relaid and the route altered slightly for modern uses in the 1950's and again in the 1980's. The tree itself has now been removed for preservation but a plaque marks the spot.
See what you learn by following brown signs!
Ugliest Resort, Ever!
Of my scheduled stops today, two of them had been recommended to me just last evening, so my thanks to Terrie for pointing out a wonderful spot I would otherwise have missed. So, next stop was just 30 some miles from Spokane in Coeur d'Alene, in Idaho.
This town is immaculately clean, crisp and has clearly been overrun by new money who've discovered it and bought second or third homes there. The streets are lined with expensive galleries, boutiques and what-not. There's also what my guide book describes as the "phenomenally expensive" Coeur d'Alene resort which dominates the town. What the book doesn't say is that it is phenomenally ugly and, in my non-architecturally trained eye, is a disgusting blot on this otherwise beautiful landscape and should be ripped down post-haste.
Seen Better Days
My next stop was in the little town of Kellogg, complete with its historical district. The buildings are very "western" in feel with saloon type frontages but sadly most of these are empty, boarded up or for sale. The thing keeping this town alive is what I have learned is the largest car dealership in the world, Dave Smith Motors which people fly into from all over the country to get a good deal. Sad, but true.
Reformed Wallace
The town of Wallace though is in a far better state of health thanks to a busy tourist trade thanks to the Silver Mining history. The town grew up to support the mining industry and has a rich history including a long period of relative lawlessness; something they celebrate at the Bordello tour which I unfortunately missed as I went on the Silver Mining Tour instead.
The tour started in the town on a little trolley bus upon which our guide gave a little background to the mining history as she drove us a short distance to the mine we'd be going down. She dropped us off and we met Cecil, a retired miner (and also ex-Air Force) who spun as a few yarns about his background before staring into the tunnels. We got the history of the mine itself which, it turns out, has no Silver in it or anything of any value. In fact it's only since it became a tourist attraction that it has just started turning a profit.
Unusually, and something I hadn't expected to see, the tour included the mining equipment being demonstrated. Only very short bursts of drilling, dragging the spoil out and a digging machine, but enough to get a small taste of the noise and cramped conditions miners worked in and still do today.
It was good little tour and another "factory" of sorts to add to my list. On the return journey into town, sorry the City of Wallace, our trolley bus tour included some of the historical buildings and sights including the home where Lana Turned was born and various dignitaries who founded and funded the settlement. The tour and town were thoroughly enjoyable and well worth the stop.
Big Sky Country
These three stops had all been in the Idaho "Panhandle", that is to say the sticky up bit which sits between Washington and Montana and reaches all the way up to Canada. I drove over the border to Montana and by doing so lost one of the hours I gained weeks ago and dropped back into the Mountain Time zone.
My lodgings tonight are a taste of something altogether more personal than previous motels. I'm staying at the Cowboy Up Dinner and Bed, where I have been treated to not only stunning scenery and a taste of the legendary "Big Sky" of Montana, but also to hand cooked dinner and very convivial chat with my hosts Jeff and John.
Emails were exchanged ahead of time and I was able to state my preference for meat and potatoes (I'm so plain sometimes) so we had fabulous steak and potato gratin followed by cheesecake with Huckleberries.
Huckleberries are unique to this part of the world and are very fussy where they grow. Not too high, not too low. Not too hot, not too dry. This means they have proven not to be cultivatable and only grow wild. I am very lucky to have had Huckleberries from Jeff's supply and he and John picked them themselves. They are delicious, by the way, so if you want to try them you'd best head west.
It's Not Easy to do "Western" Well
I am, essentially, staying in Jeff and John's house and feel like more of a house-guest than "customer". The house is generous, but not grandiose in size and is sumptuously decorated with classy, fun, attractive western style memorabilia and touches. It is quite delightful and utterly perfect to the owners, location and design. It's not easy to do "Western" well, but Jeff has done wonders here and every time I turn my head I see something pretty and just right.
I wish I were staying another night, but tomorrow I press on to my next major stop at Glacier National Park.
Goodnight.
View Driving Day 22 in a larger map
Stats - Day Forty-Eight
Distance travelled - 135 miles - Spokane, WA to St Regis, MT via Coeur d'Alene, Kellogg and Wallace, ID.
State count - 20 + DC + B.C.
Room numbers stayed in - 203, 1, 148, 212, 205, 210, 246, 118, 3, 145, 229, 111, 207, 206, 40, 605, "Cowboy"
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